EUROPE 2011
We booked a Dalmatian Coast cruise for September and decided to add a few stops to each end. Fitting these all in resulted in a month-long excursion to Europe flying Lufthansa from DFW to and from Frankfurt, Germany. In Frankfurt, we stayed at the Sheraton Hotel located adjacent to the airport and reached via a sky bridge. The train station is located on the lowest level of the airport.
COLMAR, FRANCE
The rationale for today’s journey began several years ago when we bought a book on Great Altarpieces: Gothic and Renaissance. When we took a Tauck Tour of Europe in 2001, we visited Colmar and were scheduled to visit the museum there and see a famous altarpiece, but it was May Day and the museum was closed. We traveled by train from Frankfurt through Switzerland to Colmar. We enjoyed the views of the German countryside on our way to Basel. Everything was green and lots of small farms filled the rolling landscape. We saw a few cattle and even less horses. Some fields grew flowers and even had transparent covers over some of the beds. Quite a few farms grew vegetables and some hay fields were seen. Near Friberg, we saw vinyards making vertical rows on mountainsides and espaliered and pruned apple trees bending under large red fruit. Several brief stops were made on the journey: Karlsruche; Mannheim; Baden Baden; Freiberg; Basel Bad; Basel SBB. Once we were in Basel SBB, we had to find the correct platform. We located the number and pushed through doors which had FRANCE above them; evidently this was the border. After some brief indecision and attempts to locate a person to ask, we decided that we had found our train and waited until time to board. The sides of the rail cars are painted with a map and scenes from the Alsace. We sat in the first class car and made stops at St. Louis de Chaussee; Mulhouse before reaching Colmar. This French countryside isn’t as picturesque at that of Switzerland and Germany. Once we reached Colmar, we walked out of the station and took a taxi to the Unterlinden Musee.
We entered the former church and wandered through galleries until we reached our goal---the "Isenheim Altarpiece." This magnificent work, painted by Matthias Grunewald between 1506 & 1515, dominated the former sanctuary and occupied more than half the space. It was painted for the Monastery of St. Anthony in Isenheim near Colmar, which specialized in hospital work. The Antonine monks of the monastery were noted for their care of plague sufferers as well as their treatment of skin diseases. The image of the crucified Christ is pitted with plague-type sores, showing patients that Jesus understood and shared their afflictions. Panels are painted on both sides and the very bottom layer is carved, gilded wood. What a treat to see this. The altarpiece has two sets of wings, displaying three configurations. The first view shows a Crucifixion scene, flanked by images of St. Anthony and St. Sebastian. There is a piece along the bottom frame with a Lamentation of Christ, which remains in the second view also. When the outermost wings are opened, the second view shows scenes of the Annunciation, the original subject of Mary bathing Jesus to the accompaniment of an Angelic choir (or various other titles), and the Resurrection. The innermost view shows the Temptation of Saint Anthony and the Meeting of Saint Anthony and the Hermit Paul to the sides, and a pre-existing carved gilt-wood altarpiece by Nicolas Hagenau of about 1490. Now the altarpiece has been disassembled (and sawn through) so that all the views can be seen separately, except that the original sculpted altarpiece is no longer flanked by the panels of the third view, which are instead shown together. Luckily, a small replica hangs on the wall making it possible to understand how the various hinged panels operate and open to reveal more work underneath. Carved wood elements at the top and bottom of the composition were lost in the French Revolution, when the whole painting survived nearly being destroyed. The display begins with the outer panels in a freestanding mount in the center of the room.
This display makes it possible to see both sides.
Other panels are displayed nearby and the end wall displays the carved and gilded portion.
Photos were allowed and we did. Various galleries display other altarpieces and paintings many of which are wonderful but pale in comparison to the "Isenheim Altarpiece." We wandered through more galleries of the museum and made some photos of the Altarpiece from the balcony. The clock in the tower struck two as we left the museum. We walked across the square to Staub Pfeffel for lunch. To our eyes, the town hadn’t changed since our previous visit and we couldn’t think of anything we wanted to see again. After lunch, we got directions to walk back to the train station; there were no taxis anywhere. The walk took less than a half hour but it was bright, sunny and warm. Once back at the station, we looked at the schedule and took the next train back to Basel SBB. We deciphered the timetable and located a train headed for Frankfurt Main and decided on it. The ones going to Frankfurt Airport were much later. Once aboard the train, the ticket person told us we could change in Manheim and get a train to Frankfurt Airport in 20 minutes. That didn’t work because we stopped and waited twenty minutes for some reason; perhaps the lengthy German announcements explained it. At any rate, we made it to Frankfurt Main about 8:13 and found a regional train to Frankfurt Airport leaving at 8:25. The ride took ten minutes. We walked back to the hotel.
We entered the former church and wandered through galleries until we reached our goal---the "Isenheim Altarpiece." This magnificent work, painted by Matthias Grunewald between 1506 & 1515, dominated the former sanctuary and occupied more than half the space. It was painted for the Monastery of St. Anthony in Isenheim near Colmar, which specialized in hospital work. The Antonine monks of the monastery were noted for their care of plague sufferers as well as their treatment of skin diseases. The image of the crucified Christ is pitted with plague-type sores, showing patients that Jesus understood and shared their afflictions. Panels are painted on both sides and the very bottom layer is carved, gilded wood. What a treat to see this. The altarpiece has two sets of wings, displaying three configurations. The first view shows a Crucifixion scene, flanked by images of St. Anthony and St. Sebastian. There is a piece along the bottom frame with a Lamentation of Christ, which remains in the second view also. When the outermost wings are opened, the second view shows scenes of the Annunciation, the original subject of Mary bathing Jesus to the accompaniment of an Angelic choir (or various other titles), and the Resurrection. The innermost view shows the Temptation of Saint Anthony and the Meeting of Saint Anthony and the Hermit Paul to the sides, and a pre-existing carved gilt-wood altarpiece by Nicolas Hagenau of about 1490. Now the altarpiece has been disassembled (and sawn through) so that all the views can be seen separately, except that the original sculpted altarpiece is no longer flanked by the panels of the third view, which are instead shown together. Luckily, a small replica hangs on the wall making it possible to understand how the various hinged panels operate and open to reveal more work underneath. Carved wood elements at the top and bottom of the composition were lost in the French Revolution, when the whole painting survived nearly being destroyed. The display begins with the outer panels in a freestanding mount in the center of the room.
This display makes it possible to see both sides.
Other panels are displayed nearby and the end wall displays the carved and gilded portion.
Photos were allowed and we did. Various galleries display other altarpieces and paintings many of which are wonderful but pale in comparison to the "Isenheim Altarpiece." We wandered through more galleries of the museum and made some photos of the Altarpiece from the balcony. The clock in the tower struck two as we left the museum. We walked across the square to Staub Pfeffel for lunch. To our eyes, the town hadn’t changed since our previous visit and we couldn’t think of anything we wanted to see again. After lunch, we got directions to walk back to the train station; there were no taxis anywhere. The walk took less than a half hour but it was bright, sunny and warm. Once back at the station, we looked at the schedule and took the next train back to Basel SBB. We deciphered the timetable and located a train headed for Frankfurt Main and decided on it. The ones going to Frankfurt Airport were much later. Once aboard the train, the ticket person told us we could change in Manheim and get a train to Frankfurt Airport in 20 minutes. That didn’t work because we stopped and waited twenty minutes for some reason; perhaps the lengthy German announcements explained it. At any rate, we made it to Frankfurt Main about 8:13 and found a regional train to Frankfurt Airport leaving at 8:25. The ride took ten minutes. We walked back to the hotel.
NAPLES, ITALY
Day 1 - We flew from Frankfurt to Naples and stayed at the Hotel Excelsior located on the Bay of Naples. Our room had a sea view; we could see Capri from our window and even have a small terrace off the bathroom.
We decided this would just be a relaxing afternoon and another chance to acclimate ourselves to the time change. A few minutes after five, we walked across the street to an area near Castel dell’Ovo and checked out some places to eat. Most weren’t open but we found Oste Pazzo and ate there. The food was delicious and we enjoyed sitting outside. We walked along the promenade beside the water and saw two cruise ships: Freedom of the Seas – RCCL; NCL’s Epic. Then we returned to the room and spent some time enjoying the terrace.
We decided this would just be a relaxing afternoon and another chance to acclimate ourselves to the time change. A few minutes after five, we walked across the street to an area near Castel dell’Ovo and checked out some places to eat. Most weren’t open but we found Oste Pazzo and ate there. The food was delicious and we enjoyed sitting outside. We walked along the promenade beside the water and saw two cruise ships: Freedom of the Seas – RCCL; NCL’s Epic. Then we returned to the room and spent some time enjoying the terrace.
Day 2 - Breakfast was a buffet and on the roof terrace. From there we had a view of Capri; Vesuvius; and the cruise ships in port.
We hired a private guide through the hotel. Dolores was worth every penny we paid as she was excellent. Dolores [Dolores.caporaso@gmail.com] arrived in the lobby just as we exited the elevator. We went over our list of wants with her. She said we might not be able to do it all but would try. We left shortly after 9:00 and spent the next four-plus-hours walking. In addition to explaining our sights, Dolores gave an abbreviated tour of Napoli beginning with the Castel dell’Ovo just outside our hotel; it’s the spot where the Greeks originally founded the city.
We then walked up and down streets reaching a nice view point showing the port, Castel Nuovo with its marble portal,
and various public buildings, including the mayor’s residence.
Then we went to the Piazza Plebiscito, a huge square dedicated to the unification of Italy. It is surrounded by palaces of different styles and dynasties.
We saw the Galleria Umberto I, a glass arcade erected to celebrate unification and like the one in Milan.
Across the street is the Real Teatro di San Carlo, the oldest opera house in Europe and founded in 1737.
From there we walked closer to the fortress for photos before continuing on to make our way to Spaccanapoli, a street which splits the city into two parts. We saw Virgin Mary’s Spire, a plague column,
and visited 2 churches. Gesu Nuovo, a baroque interior with silver statues and ornate décor lurks behind the severe and ugly façade of a 1470 palazzo.
Inside this Jesuit church we also saw the chapel dedicated to San Guiseppe Moscati, a doctor who treated the poor. Many votive offerings line its walls and the saint’s possessions are in small rooms nearby. Here, too, we saw a disarmed bomb which fell on the church but did not explode. Santa Chiara, a gothic Franciscan church, was erected by Robert of Anjou in the early 1300s.
His tomb is over the main altar. Bombed during WWII and the upper portion destroyed, the baroque interior was not rebuilt and the church feels somewhat austere. It has a lovely cloister which once served the Poor Claires. The garden is divided into fourths by walkways which meet at a circle in the center.
The pillars which held the arbor and the benches lining the sides of the walk are tiled. The yellow, blue, and green majolica tiles are reminiscent of Andalusia and the backs of the benches contain scenes of the outside world the cloistered nuns would never see again. One bench, however, shows a nun feeding cats.
Afterwards we visited a small museum to see pictures of the church’s interior before the destruction. In a side room we saw our first Neapolitan Christmas scene, a huge display inside a glass case.
We continued our way on Spaccanapoli noticing how the street changed and became a place housing modern day Neopolotians. We saw lots of shops and dodged people, dogs, scooters, and cars. We went to Via San Gregorio Armoro, a street lined with shops selling and workshops making Neapolitan Christmas scenes. Every size and configuration seemed available and the number of figures appeared limitless. We visited Giuseppe E. Marco Ferrigno and saw ceramic heads being hand carved and then painted. We then continued our walk to the Duomo.
We first visited the over-the-top Cappella San Gennaro, home of Naples’ patron saint.
Supposedly, the treasury of objects given as offerings to this saint as well as the amounts of silver and gold used in the chapel’s décor, make him one of the richest people in the world. A vial of his dried blood rests in a crypt behind the altar and is brought out twice a year; the blood never fails to liquefy for about 8 days at those times. This miracle assures Neapolitans that they and their city will be safe for another year. After that, we visited the main church and enjoyed its impressive décor.
It was a warm, sunny day and we were hot. We bought and drank three bottles of water during the tour. The fact that little air circulates inside the buildings and that there is no air conditioning, makes some places stifling. At Pio Monte della Misericordia, we entered to see Caravaggio’s"Seven Acts of Mercy," painted in 1607.
We enjoyed seeing it displayed in the octagonal church. Then we traipsed along more twisting streets to see Capella Sansevero, a privately owned building. We were not disappointed in the décor. Giuseppe Sammartino’s "Cristo Velata" [Veiled Christ] is a masterpiece showing Jesus lying down just as He was taken from the cross. His body is veiled and the marble carving is so exquisite that his features are visible through the veil.
There are also statues representing the parents of the chapel’s founder; the one for his father shows him extracting himself from a fishnet. Here again the marble carving is masterful.
From there we began the lengthy walk to the Archeological Museum to see huge, marble Roman statues from the Baths of Caracalla in Rome.
The so-called "Farnese Bull" carved from a single piece of Carrara marble boggles the mind with its movement and intricacy.
The "Hercules" towers at one end of the gallery;
nearby are two substitute legs for this statue carved by Michelangelo and used as replacements until the originals were found.
Then we saw excellently preserved bronzes and papyri from Herculaneum; the papyri were charred strips of carbon but are legible under microscopes. The plan of the House of Papyri is familiar because J. Paul Getty copied it for his museum in California. The best artifacts from Pompeii are housed here.
We marveled at the frescoes showing scenes, especially the battle scene depicting Alexander the Great defeating Darius,
and at the mosaics which covered floors.
The bronze "Dancing Faun" displays all the exuberance of carefree life.
Cases contain various implements and utensils of daily life in ceramic, bronze, silver, glass, gold, including the "Farnese Cup."
We even saw the frescoes in the so-called secret room because they were considered indecent; they show various sexual poses used in brothels to serve as a menu for illiterates. We also saw several phallic symbols used as street signs to point the way to the brothels. Then we took a taxi back to the hotel. After a brief stop in the room to cool off a little, we walked up the street a block or so for lunch at i Redi Napoli. We rested. We went to dinner at Ciro across the street back near the Castel dell’Ovo where we sat beside the marina. As we ate, a fisherman walked from small boat to small boat as if on dry land; then he untied some and changed positions of some boats.
We hired a private guide through the hotel. Dolores was worth every penny we paid as she was excellent. Dolores [Dolores.caporaso@gmail.com] arrived in the lobby just as we exited the elevator. We went over our list of wants with her. She said we might not be able to do it all but would try. We left shortly after 9:00 and spent the next four-plus-hours walking. In addition to explaining our sights, Dolores gave an abbreviated tour of Napoli beginning with the Castel dell’Ovo just outside our hotel; it’s the spot where the Greeks originally founded the city.
We then walked up and down streets reaching a nice view point showing the port, Castel Nuovo with its marble portal,
and various public buildings, including the mayor’s residence.
Then we went to the Piazza Plebiscito, a huge square dedicated to the unification of Italy. It is surrounded by palaces of different styles and dynasties.
We saw the Galleria Umberto I, a glass arcade erected to celebrate unification and like the one in Milan.
Across the street is the Real Teatro di San Carlo, the oldest opera house in Europe and founded in 1737.
From there we walked closer to the fortress for photos before continuing on to make our way to Spaccanapoli, a street which splits the city into two parts. We saw Virgin Mary’s Spire, a plague column,
and visited 2 churches. Gesu Nuovo, a baroque interior with silver statues and ornate décor lurks behind the severe and ugly façade of a 1470 palazzo.
Inside this Jesuit church we also saw the chapel dedicated to San Guiseppe Moscati, a doctor who treated the poor. Many votive offerings line its walls and the saint’s possessions are in small rooms nearby. Here, too, we saw a disarmed bomb which fell on the church but did not explode. Santa Chiara, a gothic Franciscan church, was erected by Robert of Anjou in the early 1300s.
His tomb is over the main altar. Bombed during WWII and the upper portion destroyed, the baroque interior was not rebuilt and the church feels somewhat austere. It has a lovely cloister which once served the Poor Claires. The garden is divided into fourths by walkways which meet at a circle in the center.
The pillars which held the arbor and the benches lining the sides of the walk are tiled. The yellow, blue, and green majolica tiles are reminiscent of Andalusia and the backs of the benches contain scenes of the outside world the cloistered nuns would never see again. One bench, however, shows a nun feeding cats.
Afterwards we visited a small museum to see pictures of the church’s interior before the destruction. In a side room we saw our first Neapolitan Christmas scene, a huge display inside a glass case.
We continued our way on Spaccanapoli noticing how the street changed and became a place housing modern day Neopolotians. We saw lots of shops and dodged people, dogs, scooters, and cars. We went to Via San Gregorio Armoro, a street lined with shops selling and workshops making Neapolitan Christmas scenes. Every size and configuration seemed available and the number of figures appeared limitless. We visited Giuseppe E. Marco Ferrigno and saw ceramic heads being hand carved and then painted. We then continued our walk to the Duomo.
We first visited the over-the-top Cappella San Gennaro, home of Naples’ patron saint.
Supposedly, the treasury of objects given as offerings to this saint as well as the amounts of silver and gold used in the chapel’s décor, make him one of the richest people in the world. A vial of his dried blood rests in a crypt behind the altar and is brought out twice a year; the blood never fails to liquefy for about 8 days at those times. This miracle assures Neapolitans that they and their city will be safe for another year. After that, we visited the main church and enjoyed its impressive décor.
It was a warm, sunny day and we were hot. We bought and drank three bottles of water during the tour. The fact that little air circulates inside the buildings and that there is no air conditioning, makes some places stifling. At Pio Monte della Misericordia, we entered to see Caravaggio’s"Seven Acts of Mercy," painted in 1607.
There are also statues representing the parents of the chapel’s founder; the one for his father shows him extracting himself from a fishnet. Here again the marble carving is masterful.
From there we began the lengthy walk to the Archeological Museum to see huge, marble Roman statues from the Baths of Caracalla in Rome.
The so-called "Farnese Bull" carved from a single piece of Carrara marble boggles the mind with its movement and intricacy.
The "Hercules" towers at one end of the gallery;
nearby are two substitute legs for this statue carved by Michelangelo and used as replacements until the originals were found.
Then we saw excellently preserved bronzes and papyri from Herculaneum; the papyri were charred strips of carbon but are legible under microscopes. The plan of the House of Papyri is familiar because J. Paul Getty copied it for his museum in California. The best artifacts from Pompeii are housed here.
We marveled at the frescoes showing scenes, especially the battle scene depicting Alexander the Great defeating Darius,
and at the mosaics which covered floors.
The bronze "Dancing Faun" displays all the exuberance of carefree life.
Cases contain various implements and utensils of daily life in ceramic, bronze, silver, glass, gold, including the "Farnese Cup."
We even saw the frescoes in the so-called secret room because they were considered indecent; they show various sexual poses used in brothels to serve as a menu for illiterates. We also saw several phallic symbols used as street signs to point the way to the brothels. Then we took a taxi back to the hotel. After a brief stop in the room to cool off a little, we walked up the street a block or so for lunch at i Redi Napoli. We rested. We went to dinner at Ciro across the street back near the Castel dell’Ovo where we sat beside the marina. As we ate, a fisherman walked from small boat to small boat as if on dry land; then he untied some and changed positions of some boats.
Day 3 – We enjoyed another buffet breakfast on the rooftop terrace before meeting Dolores at 9:00. We didn’t have as ambitious a program today but it was a full one. We walked back up the hill as we had yesterday morning, crossed Piazza Plebiscito, and went to the Funiculare Centrale. We rode it to the top of the hill and were in the area called Vomero; it’s a part of Naples but totally unlike that down below. Once there, we took a bus to Certosa de San Martino, a former monastery. The views of Naples, Vesuvius, and the harbor are excellent from here. 
Then we toured the museum housed in the building. We saw an exhibit on ship building in Naples with some actual boats and models of others.
Two royal barges, each with narrow seats for the oarsmen, filled the centers of rooms.
Then we saw the former royal carriage probably used by Garibaldi when he arrived in Naples to announce the unification of Italy. We peeked through the doors of the closed pharmacy to see the model for “The Veiled Christ” and some old medicinal containers. We walked through the formal apartments used by the prior and admired the décor which set off the art collection displayed here. Sezione Presepial, the collection of Neapolitan Nativity Scenes housed in the former kitchen, is considered to be the largest such collection in the world. One of them, "Il Presepio Cuciniello," dates from the 18th century and is huge with hundreds of figures including angels descending in a spiral. It is divided into three parts: a typical Neapolitan street scene; the central nativity scene; a hotel scene.
Others contain variations on the scene while some cases only contain figures used to complete scenes. The oldest known scene is there but is missing some pieces. There is one scene carved and placed inside an egg shell cut to form a triptych. The sacristy of paneled wood with intricate marquetry inlay, had an ornately frescoed ceiling as did the adjacent chapter.
The baroque Cappella del Tesoro left no surface undecorated.
Marble mosaics filled much of the walls and the ultra-ornate décor stupefied us.
The heavily carved and gilded altar divided the room and the choir behind held ornately carved wooden seats.
There were also several excellent paintings from the School of Caravaggio.
The Grand Cloister here contained a cemetery for the monks with marble skulls atop the posts.
After leaving the monastery, we stopped at a cameo workshop where a man showed us the process of hand carving shell into cameo jewelry. We stopped next at Castel Sant’Elmo erected in 1275 and rode an elevator to the top of the parapets to enjoy Naples, the Bay of Naples, and the islands spread out below. From here we could see Spaccanapoli clearly like an incised line through the city.
Then we walked back to the funicular, rode down, and walked through Mercato Pignaseca seeing the Neapolitans buying and selling everything imaginable. Our next stop was Palazzo Real once home to the Spanish Bourbons and then to the Savoys. The exterior which fronts on Piazza Plebiscito has niches containing marble statues of the most important kings. We toured the royal apartments.
The ornate rooms have silk-lined walls, frescoed ceilings; inlaid marble floors. The paintings, tapestries, and furniture all combine to complete the sumptuous décor. The real treat here was the Capella Palatine. A mosaic of precious and semi-precious stones covers the altar.
A large, magnificent nativity scene, once owned by a bank, is on display in the chapel.
After leaving the palace, we walked across the street to Storico Gran Caffe Gambrinus and enjoyed gelato before walking back to the hotel. Around 5:15, we left the hotel and walked up the hill to buy gelato. Then we walked back to the hotel but took the route along the waterside. After sitting on the balcony for a while and watching the world go by, we went to eat. We walked up the street to Antonio & Antonio; this restaurant and the one next door where we ate lunch yesterday were packed. After eating, we walked down around the Castel dell’Ovo before returning to the room.
Two royal barges, each with narrow seats for the oarsmen, filled the centers of rooms.
Then we saw the former royal carriage probably used by Garibaldi when he arrived in Naples to announce the unification of Italy. We peeked through the doors of the closed pharmacy to see the model for “The Veiled Christ” and some old medicinal containers. We walked through the formal apartments used by the prior and admired the décor which set off the art collection displayed here. Sezione Presepial, the collection of Neapolitan Nativity Scenes housed in the former kitchen, is considered to be the largest such collection in the world. One of them, "Il Presepio Cuciniello," dates from the 18th century and is huge with hundreds of figures including angels descending in a spiral. It is divided into three parts: a typical Neapolitan street scene; the central nativity scene; a hotel scene.
Others contain variations on the scene while some cases only contain figures used to complete scenes. The oldest known scene is there but is missing some pieces. There is one scene carved and placed inside an egg shell cut to form a triptych. The sacristy of paneled wood with intricate marquetry inlay, had an ornately frescoed ceiling as did the adjacent chapter.
The baroque Cappella del Tesoro left no surface undecorated.
Marble mosaics filled much of the walls and the ultra-ornate décor stupefied us.
The heavily carved and gilded altar divided the room and the choir behind held ornately carved wooden seats.
There were also several excellent paintings from the School of Caravaggio.
The Grand Cloister here contained a cemetery for the monks with marble skulls atop the posts.
After leaving the monastery, we stopped at a cameo workshop where a man showed us the process of hand carving shell into cameo jewelry. We stopped next at Castel Sant’Elmo erected in 1275 and rode an elevator to the top of the parapets to enjoy Naples, the Bay of Naples, and the islands spread out below. From here we could see Spaccanapoli clearly like an incised line through the city.
Then we walked back to the funicular, rode down, and walked through Mercato Pignaseca seeing the Neapolitans buying and selling everything imaginable. Our next stop was Palazzo Real once home to the Spanish Bourbons and then to the Savoys. The exterior which fronts on Piazza Plebiscito has niches containing marble statues of the most important kings. We toured the royal apartments.
The ornate rooms have silk-lined walls, frescoed ceilings; inlaid marble floors. The paintings, tapestries, and furniture all combine to complete the sumptuous décor. The real treat here was the Capella Palatine. A mosaic of precious and semi-precious stones covers the altar.
A large, magnificent nativity scene, once owned by a bank, is on display in the chapel.
After leaving the palace, we walked across the street to Storico Gran Caffe Gambrinus and enjoyed gelato before walking back to the hotel. Around 5:15, we left the hotel and walked up the hill to buy gelato. Then we walked back to the hotel but took the route along the waterside. After sitting on the balcony for a while and watching the world go by, we went to eat. We walked up the street to Antonio & Antonio; this restaurant and the one next door where we ate lunch yesterday were packed. After eating, we walked down around the Castel dell’Ovo before returning to the room.
Day 4 – After breakfast, we returned to the room and got ready for our day on the Isle of Capri. We took a taxi from the hotel to the pier and bought tickets for the 9:10 ferry to the island; we also bought the return tickets for the 5:10 ferry back to Naples. We boarded the ferry, took seats in the upper deck, and---along with a few hundred of our closest friends---enjoyed a smooth sail across the Bay of Naples. We really couldn’t see much through the windows and did not go on the very top. Yesterday we asked Dolores for advice on what to see and we did as she suggested. We were ashore on the island by 10:00 and immediately bought two bottles of water and tickets for the funicular from Marina Grande, the port area, up to Capri Town itself. Once there, we got a taxi to the town of Anacapri where we took the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro.
This was a spectacular ride farther up the island with views of the sparkling blue waters far below.
Once on the top, we made several photos of the stunning views, several of which included the Faraglioni, three rocks that have become the symbol of the island.
After enjoying some gelato, we rode the chairlift back to Anacapri.
Once there we sought out the Chiesa de San Michelle to view its floor.
Majolica tiles cover the church’s floor showing Adam’s and Eve’s expulsion from the Garden of Eden. This unique floor amazed us. An adjacent room was like a small treasury but contained the figures for a nativity scene in glass cases.
It was also possible to climb the metal spiral staircase to the organ loft to look down on the floor.
Photos without flash were allowed; we did.
We bought a small book about the church and some post cards. After leaving the church, we decided it was time for lunch and wandered around quite a while looking for a cool place. Many of the shops here sell jewelry and/or clothing; we were not interested. We sat in the shade for a while and enjoyed the breeze before taking a taxi back down to Capri Town. Once there, we walked around some, but the shops there are all designer---definitely not us. We enjoyed ice cream sundaes and Cokes at da Alberto before deciding it was time to take the funicular back down to Marina Grande. We should have bought the return tickets this morning as this was a slow process and the area was very crowded. We did get on the second one going down but thought we cut it a little close. Capri was crowded and there were several tours ashore. We walked off the funicular thinking we had about a half hour before the ferry left but decided to walk over and check. The ferry was there and we walked right on and took seats; it was air conditioned. By our watches, the ferry left at least 5 minutes early; we arrived back in Naples at 5:50. We walked out of the terminal and straight to a cab; he drove us to the hotel.
Day 5 –At 9:30, we met Dolores in the lobby and were on our way. The route took us through the industrial area of Naples as we made our way to Caserta. Our destination was the Palazzo di Caserta, a splendid royal residence with an extensive garden.
Begun in 1752 by Charles of Bourbon, King of Naples and Sicily, to compete with Versailles; the palace was not completed until 1780 during the reign of Ferdinand IV. The building, which contains some 61,000 square meters, or about 657,000 square feet, is a rectangle which is divided down the center each way so that there are four interior courtyards. Only a portion of the building is a museum; part of it houses a military school and another portion serves as a school for those entering the state department. After walking through a long carriage way to the center of the building, we ascended a grand marble staircase to make our way to the royal apartments.
Begun in 1752 by Charles of Bourbon, King of Naples and Sicily, to compete with Versailles; the palace was not completed until 1780 during the reign of Ferdinand IV. The building, which contains some 61,000 square meters, or about 657,000 square feet, is a rectangle which is divided down the center each way so that there are four interior courtyards. Only a portion of the building is a museum; part of it houses a military school and another portion serves as a school for those entering the state department. After walking through a long carriage way to the center of the building, we ascended a grand marble staircase to make our way to the royal apartments.
At the top of the stairway is a grand, domed vestibule with corridors leading from it.
Our first stop was the Palatine Chapel which is similar to the one in Palazzo Real in Naples.
Then we began our tour through the “new apartments” decorated at the beginning of the 19th century. These are neoclassical in style and were completed for Ferdinand IV and Maria Carolina. The high ceilings are ornamented with paintings and elaborate carving. Many walls have paneled and gilded elements; huge bronze chandeliers light some rooms.
We began with a series of antechambers: The Hall of Halberdiers; Guards of Honour Hall, often called the lacework hall because of its stucco; Hall of Alexander, with images of Alexander the Great; Hall of Mars with battle scenes; Hall of Astraea (Justice).
The throne room is exceptionally large at 118 feet long and 44 feet wide. An ornate gold throne, looking like a really uncomfortable large chair, sits at one end.
After the Council Chamber, we entered some bedrooms and sitting rooms.
There is even a small chapel built for the use of Pope Pius IX when he visited in 1848. We had completed one side and one end of a rectangle and passed through the Hall of Alexander again to access the “old apartments” decorated in the late 18th century. Passing into this wing, we saw lower ceilings which were frescoed and rooms lighted by Murano glass chandeliers.
The first four rooms were dedicated to the seasons: Spring Hall contains Philip Hackert paintings; Summer Hall has numerous mirrors on the walls and served as a dressing room; Autumn Hall has love scenes; Winter Hall served as the king’s dressing room.
After passing through the king’s bedroom and the queen’s bedroom, we reached the Queen’s Study; Receiving Room; Ladies in Waiting Room.
Two rooms for reading came before the Palatine Library. Then we reached The Hall of the Nativity Scene. This massive scene in a large glass case with wings on each corner, was set up each year by the royal family and is known as the Bourbon Nativity Scene. Figures were constructed by artists and by ladies in waiting. Today’s configuration is the same as the one set up by and for the Bourbon monarchs in 1844.
After touring these apartments, we bought water and walked in the garden for a while. It was warm but not too unpleasant. The large space covers 120 hectares, or about 297 acres. We walked about half way up the length of the garden to a reflecting pool fed by water pouring from a dolphin fountain;
there were more fountains and statues above that, but we felt we had walked enough and headed back to meet Dolores.
Once back inside the car, we retraced our earlier route and were back at the hotel shortly after 2:00. We really enjoyed seeing the palace and some of the countryside. Dolores just happened to casually mention that a general strike is planned for Tuesday, so we changed the time of our airport transfer from ten to nine. Then we walked up the street at i Redi Napoli for lunch. We walked back to the hotel around 3:45. After looking on the computer about tomorrow’s strike and subsequently learning that our flight tomorrow had been canceled, we got the concierge to book us on an Alitalia 1291 leaving Naples at 8:25 tonight and arriving in Venice at 9:40. Then we made arrangements for the transfer and also got the room reservation in Venice altered. We packed and got ready to leave the hotel at 7:00. More fun than we planned on. We were waiting in the lobby when the driver arrived at 6:20. Traffic was horribly snarled---some of the worst we’ve ever seen. After a severe bout of nervous prostration, we arrived at the airport about 7:20; the drive should have taken no more than 30 minutes. We checked in for the flight, passed through security, and made our way to the gate where we waited to check into a holding area. Then doors were opened and we went down lots of stairs, walking across the tarmac, and climbed a stairway to the plane. This was a CRJ like American Eagle flies and we had seats 16 D & F, an exit row. We stowed the luggage and settled in for the flight.
Our first stop was the Palatine Chapel which is similar to the one in Palazzo Real in Naples.
Then we began our tour through the “new apartments” decorated at the beginning of the 19th century. These are neoclassical in style and were completed for Ferdinand IV and Maria Carolina. The high ceilings are ornamented with paintings and elaborate carving. Many walls have paneled and gilded elements; huge bronze chandeliers light some rooms.
We began with a series of antechambers: The Hall of Halberdiers; Guards of Honour Hall, often called the lacework hall because of its stucco; Hall of Alexander, with images of Alexander the Great; Hall of Mars with battle scenes; Hall of Astraea (Justice).
The throne room is exceptionally large at 118 feet long and 44 feet wide. An ornate gold throne, looking like a really uncomfortable large chair, sits at one end.
After the Council Chamber, we entered some bedrooms and sitting rooms.
There is even a small chapel built for the use of Pope Pius IX when he visited in 1848. We had completed one side and one end of a rectangle and passed through the Hall of Alexander again to access the “old apartments” decorated in the late 18th century. Passing into this wing, we saw lower ceilings which were frescoed and rooms lighted by Murano glass chandeliers.
The first four rooms were dedicated to the seasons: Spring Hall contains Philip Hackert paintings; Summer Hall has numerous mirrors on the walls and served as a dressing room; Autumn Hall has love scenes; Winter Hall served as the king’s dressing room.
After passing through the king’s bedroom and the queen’s bedroom, we reached the Queen’s Study; Receiving Room; Ladies in Waiting Room.
Two rooms for reading came before the Palatine Library. Then we reached The Hall of the Nativity Scene. This massive scene in a large glass case with wings on each corner, was set up each year by the royal family and is known as the Bourbon Nativity Scene. Figures were constructed by artists and by ladies in waiting. Today’s configuration is the same as the one set up by and for the Bourbon monarchs in 1844.
After touring these apartments, we bought water and walked in the garden for a while. It was warm but not too unpleasant. The large space covers 120 hectares, or about 297 acres. We walked about half way up the length of the garden to a reflecting pool fed by water pouring from a dolphin fountain;
there were more fountains and statues above that, but we felt we had walked enough and headed back to meet Dolores.
Once back inside the car, we retraced our earlier route and were back at the hotel shortly after 2:00. We really enjoyed seeing the palace and some of the countryside. Dolores just happened to casually mention that a general strike is planned for Tuesday, so we changed the time of our airport transfer from ten to nine. Then we walked up the street at i Redi Napoli for lunch. We walked back to the hotel around 3:45. After looking on the computer about tomorrow’s strike and subsequently learning that our flight tomorrow had been canceled, we got the concierge to book us on an Alitalia 1291 leaving Naples at 8:25 tonight and arriving in Venice at 9:40. Then we made arrangements for the transfer and also got the room reservation in Venice altered. We packed and got ready to leave the hotel at 7:00. More fun than we planned on. We were waiting in the lobby when the driver arrived at 6:20. Traffic was horribly snarled---some of the worst we’ve ever seen. After a severe bout of nervous prostration, we arrived at the airport about 7:20; the drive should have taken no more than 30 minutes. We checked in for the flight, passed through security, and made our way to the gate where we waited to check into a holding area. Then doors were opened and we went down lots of stairs, walking across the tarmac, and climbed a stairway to the plane. This was a CRJ like American Eagle flies and we had seats 16 D & F, an exit row. We stowed the luggage and settled in for the flight.
We landed in Venice at 8:30, descended the stairway from the plane and boarded a bus for the ride to the terminal. After collecting the baggage, we made our way to the water taxi station which---thanks to the concierge---had our name posted on the window. We paid the fare and walked 5 minutes or so down a dark walkway “under the plastic canopy” until we reached the docks. Once there, we boarded the taxi for the ride across the lagoon to the hotel. Another employee accompanied the driver; we were the only passengers. We watched a couple of planes land as our route took us across the runway’s end. Other than that, it was dark. Once in Venice, we went through some back area canals where the houses were crumbling and there were few, if any, lights in the windows. It was a mystical ride under arched bridges and around strange corners that ended abruptly when the employee disembarked at the railroad station. Then we made our way down past St. Mark’s Square and to the Hotel Europa and Regina which is directly across from Chiesa Santa Maria della Salute. We disembarked, made our way to reception, and were soon in our room. The two-room suite has a nice sitting room separated from the bedroom by a double doorway hung with green and white striped drapes which match those on the windows as well as those serving as the closet door.
Day 1 – As this was our fourth time in Venice, we had already done the “must see” touristy things. At breakfast and sat outside on the terrace. A brisk breeze felt very cool and the staff lowered the clear window coverings. We enjoyed the buffet and watching all the traffic on the canal and lagoon.
After returning to the room and resting a while, we left a few minutes after 11:00 in search of Chiesa San Nicolo dei Mendicoli. We read about the church before leaving home and decided it would be worth the walk. We had our map and made excellent progress---up to a point. We found the cruise ship terminal and saw six ships in port today. A few minutes after noon, we finally realized we were lost, so we stopped an elderly Italian lady and asked for directions. She understood where we wanted to go but did not speak English and our Italian is non-existent. We finally understood that she would just show us the way. We had a nice little walk through the neighborhood with her telling us many things in Italian; we smiled and nodded. She finally brought us to the church, walked across the bridge with us, and then showed us inside. We understood from her that a euro in the box would turn on the lights. We thanked her profusely and pressed a five euro bill into her hands; when she protested, we said, “For cappuccino.” She smiled again and left. Thought to have been originally built in the 7th century, the church is known as “St. Nicholas of the Beggars” because it was in an area of poor people. After fires in the first half of the 12th century, the church was restored to its original style. Paintings adorn the upper portions of the side walls above heavily carved and gilded arches and frieze. In the center front is a large crucifixion scene composed of five carved statues. The ceiling is painted with scenes from St. Nicholas’ life. A large gilded statue of St. Nicholas sits above the altar. The euro in the light box provided plenty of time to enjoy the artwork. No photos were allowed and we bought a small book with photos and a couple of post cards.
Day 1 – As this was our fourth time in Venice, we had already done the “must see” touristy things. At breakfast and sat outside on the terrace. A brisk breeze felt very cool and the staff lowered the clear window coverings. We enjoyed the buffet and watching all the traffic on the canal and lagoon.
After returning to the room and resting a while, we left a few minutes after 11:00 in search of Chiesa San Nicolo dei Mendicoli. We read about the church before leaving home and decided it would be worth the walk. We had our map and made excellent progress---up to a point. We found the cruise ship terminal and saw six ships in port today. A few minutes after noon, we finally realized we were lost, so we stopped an elderly Italian lady and asked for directions. She understood where we wanted to go but did not speak English and our Italian is non-existent. We finally understood that she would just show us the way. We had a nice little walk through the neighborhood with her telling us many things in Italian; we smiled and nodded. She finally brought us to the church, walked across the bridge with us, and then showed us inside. We understood from her that a euro in the box would turn on the lights. We thanked her profusely and pressed a five euro bill into her hands; when she protested, we said, “For cappuccino.” She smiled again and left. Thought to have been originally built in the 7th century, the church is known as “St. Nicholas of the Beggars” because it was in an area of poor people. After fires in the first half of the 12th century, the church was restored to its original style. Paintings adorn the upper portions of the side walls above heavily carved and gilded arches and frieze. In the center front is a large crucifixion scene composed of five carved statues. The ceiling is painted with scenes from St. Nicholas’ life. A large gilded statue of St. Nicholas sits above the altar. The euro in the light box provided plenty of time to enjoy the artwork. No photos were allowed and we bought a small book with photos and a couple of post cards.
Then we began to wend our way out of the neighborhood and back toward the hotel. Around one o’clock, we stopped at Trattoria Borghi. After the nice lunch during which we sat in the shade beside the water, we began our trek back to the hotel. On the way, we stopped for some gelato. Then we got lost and wandered a bit before finally finding our way and returning to the room about 3:15.
Around 7:00 we left the hotel to get something to eat. We wandered over to Campo di San Maria Formosa and ate at Bar Orologico. The place has changed in the last ten years or so; our server spoke English. When we ate there years ago, nobody but us spoke English. After eating, we window shopped our way back to the hotel.
Day 2 – After breakfast, we left the hotel and walked to and through St. Mark’s Square and over bridges until we reached the boat station. At that time, the line to enter St. Mark’s stretched from the doorway across the front of the church and at least half way down the length of The Doge’s Palace. We paid 32 euros for two 12-hour-passes and boarded a boat for the island of Murano, center of glass making. We left the dock a few minutes after 10:00 and arrived in Murano about 10:45; the boat was full. We decided to get off at the first stop and walk around. We window shopped a lot and walked into and out of several stores---all sold items made of glass. It’s important to check because not all items are made here; some are imported from Hungary or Asia. We went inside Basilica di Santa Maria e Donato which had a beautiful marble mosaic floor laid in geometric designs. No photos were allowed. There was also a gorgeous icon of the Madonna which appeared to have jewels in the halo. After leaving the church, we made our way toward more shops. We made a photo of a huge glass sculpture which shone brilliantly in the sunshine.
By about 12:15, we made our way to the proper boat dock to catch the boat to Burano, center of lace making. After a long ride on an over-crowded boat, we landed on the island about 1:00. We wandered down the street and stopped at Rastaurant Galuppi for lunch. We had a nice table in the shade with an occasional breeze, so the meal was pleasant. After lunch, we continued walking along the street. Much has changed in the 10 years of so since we were here; there are many more shops and restaurants. Also, most of the stores which sell lace get their products from India or some other Asian country. We stopped in La Perla Gallery where a lady was demonstrating how to make lace by hand. The shop had quite a few items of handmade Burano lace for sale and a special showroom upstairs. The proprietress showed her many fine pieces of handmade lace and several heirloom pieces from her collection. She also recommended a visit to the museum. After leaving the shop, we continued to the end of the street and visited The Burano Lace Museum housed in the former home of the Burano Lace School. We watched a short video on the history of lace in Venice and then went upstairs to the exhibits. Several large cabinets have drawers with glass tops which slide from side to side to allow viewing of different pieces of lace. Each cabinet is about 12 feet long and the 4 to 8 inch deep drawers are of different lengths or widths to allow viewing of the one below. Some of the lace is extremely intricate and made with thread finer than sewing thread. After leaving the museum, we stopped for some gelato before returning to the boat dock. We caught the 2:52 boat which required a change to a larger boat before we reached our starting point in Venice at 4:05. It was a rewarding six-hour-day. The temperature was supposed to only be 78 but it felt much hotter. We returned to the room. About 7:00, we left the hotel and walked along to get supper. We ate at da Raffaela at a table beside the canal. It was dinner and a show as we watched a water taxi stop and pick up people right beside us. This canal was also on a gondola route and many glided by; one fleet of perhaps a dozen must have held a tour group and had a singer. One of the gondoliers lost his oar and the other gondoliers and the water taxi driver made fun of him. Another group came by with a singer; he sang "Cielito Lindo," a Mexican song with nothing to do with Italy. After dinner we walked over into and around St. Mark’s Square before returning to the hotel.
PADUA, ITALY – Day Trip
Day 3 –We were waiting on the pier when the water taxi arrived at 11:30 to take us to Santa Lucia Railway Station. We enjoyed the ride up the Grand Canal and through other small canals to the station. From the boat, seeing the decay of the lower floors of the buildings was much easier; many looked as if they relied on their neighbors to remain upright.
After paying the fare, we made our way into the station and purchased a ticket for Padua/Padova from a machine. We got seats on the train and pulled out of the station at 11:52. I should have paid attention to the arrival time as well as the departure and picked a faster train; this one stopped at every station between Venice and Padua. The countryside and the towns look poor and unkempt. There is some agriculture but it looks sort of after-the-fact. Once in Padua, we went to the tourist office in the train station and got a map. Our goal was the Scrovegni Chapel which is an easy fifteen minute walk from the station.
After claiming the tickets, we looked for a place for lunch and found Paprika Café about two blocks up the street. Then we walked back down to the Scrovegni Chapel and looked around at the art collection until 2:45 when we went to wait for our allotted time inside the chapel. They let our group of about 15 in at 3:00 and showed us a video on the chapel with English subtitles which lasted about 15 minutes. Then we were allowed inside the frescoes chapel for 15 minutes. Everything is humidity controlled. The entire interior was frescoed by Giotto in 1303. The upper portion shows scenes from the Life of the Virgin. Below that are two bands with scenes from the Life of Christ. The entire back wall is a Last Judgment. A blue domed ceiling completes the scene. Recent restoration brought the works back to some of their former glory. We felt that seeing these frescoes was well worth the effort.
After viewing the chapel, we walked back to the train station. Once there, we bought a ticket to leave at 4:16 and arrive in Venice at 4:49---a much better trip. Once back at Santa Lucia Railway Station, we booked a vaporetto to San Marco. This one made every stop and it was almost 6:00 by the time we got back to the room.
Venice is committing suicide because of greed. There are too many large ships and too many tourists. The city is overloaded and can’t sustain itself very long. Many unique and special shops have given way to designer stores. It is rapidly losing its character and charm.
Day 4 –A few minutes after noon, we checked out and asked for the bellman. By 12:30, we were seated in the lobby waiting for the water taxi we booked for 1:00. He arrived on time and we and our luggage were soon aboard. I told him we were going to Seabourn Spirit and he made a U-turn with the boat and we sailed out of the Grand Canal and around Chiesa Santa Maria della Salute and sailed toward the cruise terminal.
We had never sailed this area before and were interested in the structures on both this side of the island and on the island to our left.
We went to dinner at Restaurant 2 at 7:00. Sitting outside and enjoying the pleasant weather added to the meal. We watched night fall and Venice recede into a thin, dark gray line on the horizon; then a few scattered lights appeared. A haze provided a somewhat wispy view and a few ships shone as dots of light except for a cruise ship which looked like a garish blob as it sailed perpendicular to our wake in the calm, mirror-like sea. After eating, we went topside and saw an occasional star or two twinkle through the wispy clouds. An almost full moon created a gleaming, silvery pathway across the dark, blue-black water.
This was our second cruise on Seabourn Spirit, a small ship carrying only 208 passengers. We enjoy the friendliness of the crew and staff and the convenience of the smaller ship. As this is an all-inclusive cruise line, drinks---including wine and alcohol---are free. We only paid for shore excursions. This was actually two seven-day cruises out of Venice which we combined. The ports were all in the Adriatic Sea and while two were in Italy most were in the former Yugoslavia: Slovenia; Croatia; Montenegro. We were totally unaware that hundreds of islands form an archipelago along the coatline.
After paying the fare, we made our way into the station and purchased a ticket for Padua/Padova from a machine. We got seats on the train and pulled out of the station at 11:52. I should have paid attention to the arrival time as well as the departure and picked a faster train; this one stopped at every station between Venice and Padua. The countryside and the towns look poor and unkempt. There is some agriculture but it looks sort of after-the-fact. Once in Padua, we went to the tourist office in the train station and got a map. Our goal was the Scrovegni Chapel which is an easy fifteen minute walk from the station.
After claiming the tickets, we looked for a place for lunch and found Paprika Café about two blocks up the street. Then we walked back down to the Scrovegni Chapel and looked around at the art collection until 2:45 when we went to wait for our allotted time inside the chapel. They let our group of about 15 in at 3:00 and showed us a video on the chapel with English subtitles which lasted about 15 minutes. Then we were allowed inside the frescoes chapel for 15 minutes. Everything is humidity controlled. The entire interior was frescoed by Giotto in 1303. The upper portion shows scenes from the Life of the Virgin. Below that are two bands with scenes from the Life of Christ. The entire back wall is a Last Judgment. A blue domed ceiling completes the scene. Recent restoration brought the works back to some of their former glory. We felt that seeing these frescoes was well worth the effort.
After viewing the chapel, we walked back to the train station. Once there, we bought a ticket to leave at 4:16 and arrive in Venice at 4:49---a much better trip. Once back at Santa Lucia Railway Station, we booked a vaporetto to San Marco. This one made every stop and it was almost 6:00 by the time we got back to the room.
Venice is committing suicide because of greed. There are too many large ships and too many tourists. The city is overloaded and can’t sustain itself very long. Many unique and special shops have given way to designer stores. It is rapidly losing its character and charm.
Day 4 –A few minutes after noon, we checked out and asked for the bellman. By 12:30, we were seated in the lobby waiting for the water taxi we booked for 1:00. He arrived on time and we and our luggage were soon aboard. I told him we were going to Seabourn Spirit and he made a U-turn with the boat and we sailed out of the Grand Canal and around Chiesa Santa Maria della Salute and sailed toward the cruise terminal.
We had never sailed this area before and were interested in the structures on both this side of the island and on the island to our left.
SEABOURN CRUISE
We soon saw the Seabourn Spirit tied up alongside a quay and nodded when he asked if that were out ship. We pulled up alongside some steps and were soon ashore with our luggage. The luggage was taken by porters and we entered the Cruise Terminal where we went through Security before walking down the quay and completing a health form before being escorted aboard the ship. Once in the Amundsen Lounge, we were checked in and given sandwiches, cookies, and drinks. We were in suite 118 and our luggage was delivered before 2:00. We met Nadine, our stewardess, unpacked and then put jeans in the washer. At 3:00, we went to tea and realized that our view was of Chiesa San Nicolo dei Mendicoli which we visited on Tuesday. After tea, we retrieved the jeans from the dryer and then stayed in the cabin until the “Sail Away” at 5:45 and stayed topside until we had turned and sailed past St. Mark’s Square.
We went to dinner at Restaurant 2 at 7:00. Sitting outside and enjoying the pleasant weather added to the meal. We watched night fall and Venice recede into a thin, dark gray line on the horizon; then a few scattered lights appeared. A haze provided a somewhat wispy view and a few ships shone as dots of light except for a cruise ship which looked like a garish blob as it sailed perpendicular to our wake in the calm, mirror-like sea. After eating, we went topside and saw an occasional star or two twinkle through the wispy clouds. An almost full moon created a gleaming, silvery pathway across the dark, blue-black water.
This was our second cruise on Seabourn Spirit, a small ship carrying only 208 passengers. We enjoy the friendliness of the crew and staff and the convenience of the smaller ship. As this is an all-inclusive cruise line, drinks---including wine and alcohol---are free. We only paid for shore excursions. This was actually two seven-day cruises out of Venice which we combined. The ports were all in the Adriatic Sea and while two were in Italy most were in the former Yugoslavia: Slovenia; Croatia; Montenegro. We were totally unaware that hundreds of islands form an archipelago along the coatline.
We left Kopor much closer to 8:30 than the scheduled 8:15 with Jernej [Jer Nay] as our guide. We drove out of Koper and toward the capital Ljubijana [Lou Be Ahh Nah]. The countryside is almost pristine with clear air and lots of trees. It’s very green. The agriculture we saw seemed to consist mostly of truck farming although we did see one or two small herds of cattle. We were told that it’s haying season, but saw no evidence of this. After a brief restroom stop, we arrived in Lijubijana about 10:00. We took a riverboat cruise on the Ljubijanika River but really couldn’t see much because we were so far below street level.
After disembarking near The Three Bridges, we visited The Cathedral of Ljubljana completed in the 1700s in the baroque style.
The bronze entrance doors are dedicated to Pope John Paul II.
While we were impressed with the entire interior, the exuberance of the carved and gilded pulpit was outstanding.
We exited through more bronze doors.
We wandered the street and stopped near a fountain representing the three rivers of Slovenia
before crossing one of the three bridges and heading to Gostilna Gestica for lunch. We got there at noon and left at 1:15 without dessert. We went to the tourist information office and then walked over to a couple of shops to look for locally made bobbin lace. After walking through the market and buying a felted silk scarf, we bought gelato before going back to meet Jernej in front of the “Pink Franciscan Church” at 2:00.
For some reason, we could not go inside the church today. Jernej lectured on the bus, outside the cathedral entrance; outside the cathedral exit; near the fountain; in front of the pink Franciscan Church; and every lecture began with 600 A.D. and came forward. He is not a very good guide and his English was poorer than any other Slovenian we encountered. We reboarded the bus and drove back to Koper over the same divided highway, part of which is a toll road. There are two fairly long tunnels on the route. Slovenia seems to be a small country with potential but needs some direction and a boost.
After disembarking near The Three Bridges, we visited The Cathedral of Ljubljana completed in the 1700s in the baroque style.
The bronze entrance doors are dedicated to Pope John Paul II.
While we were impressed with the entire interior, the exuberance of the carved and gilded pulpit was outstanding.
We exited through more bronze doors.
We wandered the street and stopped near a fountain representing the three rivers of Slovenia
before crossing one of the three bridges and heading to Gostilna Gestica for lunch. We got there at noon and left at 1:15 without dessert. We went to the tourist information office and then walked over to a couple of shops to look for locally made bobbin lace. After walking through the market and buying a felted silk scarf, we bought gelato before going back to meet Jernej in front of the “Pink Franciscan Church” at 2:00.
For some reason, we could not go inside the church today. Jernej lectured on the bus, outside the cathedral entrance; outside the cathedral exit; near the fountain; in front of the pink Franciscan Church; and every lecture began with 600 A.D. and came forward. He is not a very good guide and his English was poorer than any other Slovenian we encountered. We reboarded the bus and drove back to Koper over the same divided highway, part of which is a toll road. There are two fairly long tunnels on the route. Slovenia seems to be a small country with potential but needs some direction and a boost.
The ship anchored in Triluke Bay, Croatia for a marina day.
The bay is surrounded by mountains and dotted with small islands. Sali, a fishing village hugs the shore and climbs part way up the rocky hills; exposed rocks and sparse vegetation indicate the infertility of the soil. Almost all the buildings in the village have red tile roofs topping walls of white, beige, and yellow; a handful of pink buildings intersperse the others.
Bright sunshine and sparking blue water make for a picture perfect day. After breakfast, we went topside and pulled chaise lounges into the shade and enjoyed the outside. Tenders began running to the village at 10:30, but we decided to stay onboard. Hazy mountains fringed the horizon and white motor boats darted around, and boats with white sails drifted to and fro.
It was a lazy, enjoyable, relaxing morning. At 11:30, marina sports began with kayaks; peddle boats; banana boat rides.
After lunch in the Veranda Café, we returned to the cabin. Around 3:30, we went back topside to enjoy the view a little more; the blue ocean gives way to blue-gray, hazy mountains/hills which are topped by a whitish streaky sky below a very blue one. We sailed at 5:00 and the captain announced that we would be cruising through islands that comprise a national park for a while. The closer we got to the small mountains/tall hill, the more we realized they were just dirt and rocks with very, very sparse vegetation of any kind. In a way, they looked like the results of pit mining. We commented that it was like sailing the Nile and seeing the non-irrigated desert.
The bay is surrounded by mountains and dotted with small islands. Sali, a fishing village hugs the shore and climbs part way up the rocky hills; exposed rocks and sparse vegetation indicate the infertility of the soil. Almost all the buildings in the village have red tile roofs topping walls of white, beige, and yellow; a handful of pink buildings intersperse the others.
Bright sunshine and sparking blue water make for a picture perfect day. After breakfast, we went topside and pulled chaise lounges into the shade and enjoyed the outside. Tenders began running to the village at 10:30, but we decided to stay onboard. Hazy mountains fringed the horizon and white motor boats darted around, and boats with white sails drifted to and fro.
It was a lazy, enjoyable, relaxing morning. At 11:30, marina sports began with kayaks; peddle boats; banana boat rides.
After lunch in the Veranda Café, we returned to the cabin. Around 3:30, we went back topside to enjoy the view a little more; the blue ocean gives way to blue-gray, hazy mountains/hills which are topped by a whitish streaky sky below a very blue one. We sailed at 5:00 and the captain announced that we would be cruising through islands that comprise a national park for a while. The closer we got to the small mountains/tall hill, the more we realized they were just dirt and rocks with very, very sparse vegetation of any kind. In a way, they looked like the results of pit mining. We commented that it was like sailing the Nile and seeing the non-irrigated desert.
DUBROVNIK, CROATIA
From the outside deck, we could see the walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia. The stone walls appeared quite formidable in the bright sunshine.
White houses with red tiled roofs cascade on the surrounding mountainsides. We rode the tender ashore for the “I-Pod Tour” a few minutes after 9:00. Instructions were sketchy and he neglected to tell us we were not at the beginning point of the menu; we found the tour somewhat difficult even though we had a map with the numbered spots on it because there were no numbers or other identifying marks on most of the buildings. The interior descriptions of the churches were beneficial. George Bernard Shaw called Dubrovnik “the pearl of the Adriatic,” and the old city is amazing. Various earthquakes have damaged the city over the centuries but rebuilding has always followed. At one time, this was the independent Republic of Ragusa and an important trading center about half way between Venice and Constantinople. Napoleon ended its independence in 1806 and it then became a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after WWII when it was a part of Yugoslavia. It gained independence as a part of Croatia in 1990 but suffered the effects of a two-year war and a siege with damage to buildings in 1991-2. We entered the Old Town through a gate and saw the Cathedral built originally by Richard the Lion Hearted and rebuilt several times after various earthquakes.
From there we saw the Venetian-style Rector’s Palace before seeing
The Church of St. Blaise, where a wedding was in progress; Sponza Palace; Orlando’s/Roland’s Column.
Then we walked down the Stradun/Placa, a wide straight street
leading to the Pile Gate.
We looked at the walls here and at the dry moat and drawbridge;
just inside the walls is the Big Fountain of Onofrio, which once supplied water for the town.
Here, too, are the Franciscan Monastery with the St. Saviour’s Church
and St. Claire’s Convent. Many of these buildings are not open. We turned around and made our way back up the street. By the time we got back to The Church of St. Blaise, the wedding was over and we went inside.
We located the small statue of the saint resting above the altar; it is paraded on St. Blaise’s Feast Day in February. We also admired the five paintings depicting the saint’s life which are above the altar and below the organ pipes. After walking through a street market and seeing another set of steps leading up to the top of the city wall, we returned to the Cathedral and paid the fee to visit the Cathedral Treasury, a small room to the altar’s right. This ornate chamber contained many riches; niches on the walls were filled with some 200reliquaries. There is a cross containing a fragment of the true cross. The skull of St. Blaise is encased in a gold Byzantine-style crown; his left hand and arm and one of his legs are also encased in silver and gold; these three also join the procession on feast day in February. There is a painting attributed to Raphael and a triptych of the “Adoration of the Magi” which Ragusan officials used as a portable altar on 130+ trips they made to Constantinople. All of this is housed inside a room with frescoed ceiling; carved gilded wall decorations; intricately inlayed marble floors and altar rails. After leaving the church and noticing it was around noon, we decided to return to the ship and a tender was waiting when we got to the pier.
White houses with red tiled roofs cascade on the surrounding mountainsides. We rode the tender ashore for the “I-Pod Tour” a few minutes after 9:00. Instructions were sketchy and he neglected to tell us we were not at the beginning point of the menu; we found the tour somewhat difficult even though we had a map with the numbered spots on it because there were no numbers or other identifying marks on most of the buildings. The interior descriptions of the churches were beneficial. George Bernard Shaw called Dubrovnik “the pearl of the Adriatic,” and the old city is amazing. Various earthquakes have damaged the city over the centuries but rebuilding has always followed. At one time, this was the independent Republic of Ragusa and an important trading center about half way between Venice and Constantinople. Napoleon ended its independence in 1806 and it then became a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after WWII when it was a part of Yugoslavia. It gained independence as a part of Croatia in 1990 but suffered the effects of a two-year war and a siege with damage to buildings in 1991-2. We entered the Old Town through a gate and saw the Cathedral built originally by Richard the Lion Hearted and rebuilt several times after various earthquakes.
From there we saw the Venetian-style Rector’s Palace before seeing
The Church of St. Blaise, where a wedding was in progress; Sponza Palace; Orlando’s/Roland’s Column.
Then we walked down the Stradun/Placa, a wide straight street
leading to the Pile Gate.
We looked at the walls here and at the dry moat and drawbridge;
just inside the walls is the Big Fountain of Onofrio, which once supplied water for the town.
Here, too, are the Franciscan Monastery with the St. Saviour’s Church
and St. Claire’s Convent. Many of these buildings are not open. We turned around and made our way back up the street. By the time we got back to The Church of St. Blaise, the wedding was over and we went inside.
We located the small statue of the saint resting above the altar; it is paraded on St. Blaise’s Feast Day in February. We also admired the five paintings depicting the saint’s life which are above the altar and below the organ pipes. After walking through a street market and seeing another set of steps leading up to the top of the city wall, we returned to the Cathedral and paid the fee to visit the Cathedral Treasury, a small room to the altar’s right. This ornate chamber contained many riches; niches on the walls were filled with some 200reliquaries. There is a cross containing a fragment of the true cross. The skull of St. Blaise is encased in a gold Byzantine-style crown; his left hand and arm and one of his legs are also encased in silver and gold; these three also join the procession on feast day in February. There is a painting attributed to Raphael and a triptych of the “Adoration of the Magi” which Ragusan officials used as a portable altar on 130+ trips they made to Constantinople. All of this is housed inside a room with frescoed ceiling; carved gilded wall decorations; intricately inlayed marble floors and altar rails. After leaving the church and noticing it was around noon, we decided to return to the ship and a tender was waiting when we got to the pier.
At 9:30 we met our guide Verdan on the pier for the two-hour walking tour, “Split and Diocletian’s Palace.” We walked into town and immediate entered the oldest part of Split which is built inside Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace which was his retirement home.
Entering from the South, or sea side, through the Brass Gate,
we went to the cellars or underground portion to see the beautifully preserved limestone columns and vaulted ceilings of the rooms. Because later inhabitants of the upper portion punched holes in their floors, which were the ceilings of these rooms, and filled them with garbage and trash; these structures are remarkably preserved.
Verdan explained that archaeologists began removing the debris in the 19th and 20th centuries to reveal the chambers. There were places where debris remained in place to illustrate the previous conditions.
After leaving the underground portion and crossing through the circular Vestibul, we climbed to the Peristil. Here we saw columns which Diocletian imported from Egypt to use in the constructions.
We then entered Diocletian’s Mausoleum which is now the Cathedral of St. Duje.
The ornate structure has a beautiful domed ceiling. There is no trace of Diocletian’s sarcophagus or body; both were probably destroyed by early Christians as retribution for his persecution. Then we walked over to the former Temple of Jupiter, which is now the Baptistery. Instead of a statue of Jupiter, it houses a bronze statue of St. John the Baptist.
On the baptistery font a carving of an early Croatian Christian king is said to be the oldest carving depicting a Christian monarch in Europe.
Nearby was a very, very narrow street known locally as “Let Me Pass.”
From there we walked through the palace seeing both the Silver (or east) Gate and the Iron (or west) Gate down narrow streets.
Then we walked through the containment area and out through the Golden Gate on the north.
Here we were able to appreciate the strength and height of the walls.
An oversized bronze statue of Poljana Gurgura Niskog, an early Croatian bishop who advocated the use of the local language in liturgical services, stands here.
Then we walked down a medieval street and stopped near the Town Hall.
Here, too, was a Venetian fortress erected by those conquerors to protect themselves from the locals.
We then saw a merchant’s house with a statue of St. Anthony on it and the merchant himself holding onto St. Anthony’s robe.
Perhaps the most interesting carving here is the one of a man and a woman. Art historians say that it is Adam and Eve and he is holding the apple she has given him. Locals say it is a man with his fist raised toward the woman and that she is “giving him the finger” to illustrate what happens when a man tries to abuse a Croatian woman.
Entering from the South, or sea side, through the Brass Gate,
we went to the cellars or underground portion to see the beautifully preserved limestone columns and vaulted ceilings of the rooms. Because later inhabitants of the upper portion punched holes in their floors, which were the ceilings of these rooms, and filled them with garbage and trash; these structures are remarkably preserved.
Verdan explained that archaeologists began removing the debris in the 19th and 20th centuries to reveal the chambers. There were places where debris remained in place to illustrate the previous conditions.
After leaving the underground portion and crossing through the circular Vestibul, we climbed to the Peristil. Here we saw columns which Diocletian imported from Egypt to use in the constructions.
We then entered Diocletian’s Mausoleum which is now the Cathedral of St. Duje.
The ornate structure has a beautiful domed ceiling. There is no trace of Diocletian’s sarcophagus or body; both were probably destroyed by early Christians as retribution for his persecution. Then we walked over to the former Temple of Jupiter, which is now the Baptistery. Instead of a statue of Jupiter, it houses a bronze statue of St. John the Baptist.
On the baptistery font a carving of an early Croatian Christian king is said to be the oldest carving depicting a Christian monarch in Europe.
Nearby was a very, very narrow street known locally as “Let Me Pass.”
From there we walked through the palace seeing both the Silver (or east) Gate and the Iron (or west) Gate down narrow streets.
Then we walked through the containment area and out through the Golden Gate on the north.
Here we were able to appreciate the strength and height of the walls.
An oversized bronze statue of Poljana Gurgura Niskog, an early Croatian bishop who advocated the use of the local language in liturgical services, stands here.
Then we walked down a medieval street and stopped near the Town Hall.
Here, too, was a Venetian fortress erected by those conquerors to protect themselves from the locals.
We then saw a merchant’s house with a statue of St. Anthony on it and the merchant himself holding onto St. Anthony’s robe.
Perhaps the most interesting carving here is the one of a man and a woman. Art historians say that it is Adam and Eve and he is holding the apple she has given him. Locals say it is a man with his fist raised toward the woman and that she is “giving him the finger” to illustrate what happens when a man tries to abuse a Croatian woman.
The tour ended nearby.We anchored in the harbor of the island of Hvar. Boarding the tender was an unpleasant experience because the wake created by a passing boat caused it to heave. This is one of the most visited islands in this portion of the Adriatic Sea and thought to be the most beautiful. Once ashore we met our guide Egova and began our tour.
As we walked through the town, she pointed out various sites: the Arsenal; the Theater;
the Cathedral;
city gates. Once aboard the bus we began a forty-five-minute ride over the old road as we made our way to the village of Starii Grad. The old road is two lanes but not wide enough for the bus to meet any cars; we stopped several times for oncoming vehicles to back up until we reached a place wide enough for them to pull to one side and allow us to pass. The road twists and turns through the hills/mountains. Sometimes the turns are hairpins and there is often a steep drop-off at the road’s edge. Egova pointed out various plants and explained their uses. We learned that the Greeks originally settled the island calling it Pharos; over the centuries that was corrupted to Hvar. Once we reached the village of Starii Grad, located at the inmost tip of a fjord-like inlet, we visited a small museum located in the Dominican Monastery
which contained a few artifacts and some paintings; we enjoyed seeing the illustrated hymnals; icons; embroidered robes. There were some ancient stones inscribed in Greek denoting land ownership. Then we walked the narrow, medieval streets of the town and through the main square before arriving at the small port and rejoining the bus.
From there we rode to Vranboska, another small village, where we had wine; cheese; olives; bread; prosciutto; bread at Konoba Vrisnik; all were good. Then we reboarded the bus and drove back to Hvar, but this time we used the newer highway and made much better time. We learned that the central plain of the island is very fertile and saw many vineyards. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because the ancient stone fences built by the Greeks in 300 B.C. are still visible from the air.
We drove to the top of the mountain and stopped at Spanjola, the ancient fortress which overlooks the town.
The clear day provided an excellent opportunity to make some photos of the panorama below.
We heard the bells in the town below chime noon. Then we drove down into town and the tour ended. We walked inside The Cathedral of St. Stephen I, the Pope and Martyr. We found it somewhat disappointing. Then we walked through one of the city gates and up steps to the Benedictine Monastery to see the agave lace museum; it was closed.
As we walked through the town, she pointed out various sites: the Arsenal; the Theater;
the Cathedral;
city gates. Once aboard the bus we began a forty-five-minute ride over the old road as we made our way to the village of Starii Grad. The old road is two lanes but not wide enough for the bus to meet any cars; we stopped several times for oncoming vehicles to back up until we reached a place wide enough for them to pull to one side and allow us to pass. The road twists and turns through the hills/mountains. Sometimes the turns are hairpins and there is often a steep drop-off at the road’s edge. Egova pointed out various plants and explained their uses. We learned that the Greeks originally settled the island calling it Pharos; over the centuries that was corrupted to Hvar. Once we reached the village of Starii Grad, located at the inmost tip of a fjord-like inlet, we visited a small museum located in the Dominican Monastery
which contained a few artifacts and some paintings; we enjoyed seeing the illustrated hymnals; icons; embroidered robes. There were some ancient stones inscribed in Greek denoting land ownership. Then we walked the narrow, medieval streets of the town and through the main square before arriving at the small port and rejoining the bus.
From there we rode to Vranboska, another small village, where we had wine; cheese; olives; bread; prosciutto; bread at Konoba Vrisnik; all were good. Then we reboarded the bus and drove back to Hvar, but this time we used the newer highway and made much better time. We learned that the central plain of the island is very fertile and saw many vineyards. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because the ancient stone fences built by the Greeks in 300 B.C. are still visible from the air.
We drove to the top of the mountain and stopped at Spanjola, the ancient fortress which overlooks the town.
The clear day provided an excellent opportunity to make some photos of the panorama below.
We heard the bells in the town below chime noon. Then we drove down into town and the tour ended. We walked inside The Cathedral of St. Stephen I, the Pope and Martyr. We found it somewhat disappointing. Then we walked through one of the city gates and up steps to the Benedictine Monastery to see the agave lace museum; it was closed.
The ship anchored off Rovinj.
At 8:15 we met the tour in the lounge and rode the first tender ashore. Once ashore, we met Olivia, our guide, and boarded the first bus for our tour, “Historic Village of Pula.” We learned that most families in this part of the peninsula of Istria have small farms, or campanias, outside the towns where they raise olives, grapes, and vegetables for their own use. All their leisure time is spent on the country and they only stay in town to work. There is a strong Venetian history here and the current population is about 17% Italian; both Italian and Croatian are taught in school. After riding about 45 minutes through the countryside containing olive groves, vineyards, and small farms; we arrived in the village of Pula. Our first stop here was the Roman Amphitheatre, one of the six largest in existence, which was built in the first century A.D.
Holding about 23,000 spectators, it’s defining feature is four towers which had roofs designed to hold rainwater. Originally there was a wooden structure which held awnings to shade the inhabitants. Elliptical in shape, it is approximately 222 feet long and 135 feet wide and had iron railings to separate the performers from the spectators.
There were stone seats inscribed with name of those holding “season tickets,” and some of these stones were later used as foundation for the church bell tower erected in the early 1700s. The limestone walls are composed of a system of arches. Because the amphitheater is constructed on a hillside, the upper side has two rows of arches while the lower side facing the sea has three; it is almost 100 feet tall.
Below ground is a T-shaped passageway once used by animals, performers, and victims before they were placed into the arena itself. It is thought that a nearby structure once served as both a school and home for gladiators and that an tunnel connected it to the amphitheater. An exhibit on the making of olive oil and of wine occupies this underground area and has some ancient machinery and many amphorae.
From there we walked into the town to see other sites: Arch of the Sergii
and Temple of Romae and Augustus both erected in the first century B.C. The nearby Town Hall is a part of the temple structure.
A statue of James Joyce, who spent time here teaching English to Austrian soldiers, sits outside the “Ulysses” bar.
After having about a half hour free time during which we walked through the market
and enjoyed some ice cream, we walked back to the bus. On the way we stopped near a portion of the original city wall and guard towers
and saw the Twin Gate, a double-arched structure erected in the second and third centuries.
Once back on board the bus, we retrace our route to Rovinj with Olivia talking most of the way.
At 8:15 we met the tour in the lounge and rode the first tender ashore. Once ashore, we met Olivia, our guide, and boarded the first bus for our tour, “Historic Village of Pula.” We learned that most families in this part of the peninsula of Istria have small farms, or campanias, outside the towns where they raise olives, grapes, and vegetables for their own use. All their leisure time is spent on the country and they only stay in town to work. There is a strong Venetian history here and the current population is about 17% Italian; both Italian and Croatian are taught in school. After riding about 45 minutes through the countryside containing olive groves, vineyards, and small farms; we arrived in the village of Pula. Our first stop here was the Roman Amphitheatre, one of the six largest in existence, which was built in the first century A.D.
Holding about 23,000 spectators, it’s defining feature is four towers which had roofs designed to hold rainwater. Originally there was a wooden structure which held awnings to shade the inhabitants. Elliptical in shape, it is approximately 222 feet long and 135 feet wide and had iron railings to separate the performers from the spectators.
There were stone seats inscribed with name of those holding “season tickets,” and some of these stones were later used as foundation for the church bell tower erected in the early 1700s. The limestone walls are composed of a system of arches. Because the amphitheater is constructed on a hillside, the upper side has two rows of arches while the lower side facing the sea has three; it is almost 100 feet tall.
Below ground is a T-shaped passageway once used by animals, performers, and victims before they were placed into the arena itself. It is thought that a nearby structure once served as both a school and home for gladiators and that an tunnel connected it to the amphitheater. An exhibit on the making of olive oil and of wine occupies this underground area and has some ancient machinery and many amphorae.
From there we walked into the town to see other sites: Arch of the Sergii
and Temple of Romae and Augustus both erected in the first century B.C. The nearby Town Hall is a part of the temple structure.
A statue of James Joyce, who spent time here teaching English to Austrian soldiers, sits outside the “Ulysses” bar.
After having about a half hour free time during which we walked through the market
and enjoyed some ice cream, we walked back to the bus. On the way we stopped near a portion of the original city wall and guard towers
and saw the Twin Gate, a double-arched structure erected in the second and third centuries.
Once back on board the bus, we retrace our route to Rovinj with Olivia talking most of the way.
RAVENNA, ITALY
At 8:30 we met the tour on the pier. We rode the bus about 20 or 25 minutes from the industrial port into the city of Ravenna itself. Along the way we passed a marshy are with quite a few fishing shacks. The method is to lower large nets which are suspended on poles attached to the shacks and then to raise them and remove the fish.
Lots of egrets and other water birds fed in the shallow water and the reeds. Once in Ravenna we left the bus with our guide and began our tour during which we saw some of the most impressive mosaics of our travels. After walking through a cloister,
our first stop was the Basilica of San Vitale. Built in the middle 6th century, the Byzantine structure reminds of a smaller Hagia Sophia.
The columns have basket-like capitals but the buildings claim to fame is its mosaics. The floor is made of marble mosaics in a geometric pattern but the upper walls and ceiling have pictorial and decorative ones. A triumphal arch contains portraits of the apostles with a bearded Jesus at the top; dolphins are intertwined with the portraits. Above the altar sits a young Christ on a complete circle; among the figures around him is the bishop who constructed the church holding a model of it.
In the very center of the dome is a lamb wearing a halo.
Biblical scenes decorate the upper portions of the walls: Sarah hearing she will bear a child; three angels; Abraham sacrificing Isaac. Opposite is a mosaic of Abel with a lamb and the priest Melchizedek---both of them offering toward an altar holding bread and wine and above which the Lord emerges from a cloud.
Most famous here are the so-called "Imperial Panels" which show the Emperor Justinian on the left and Empress Theodora opposite; both are in royal purple and full regalia.
Colors are exquisite and the glass and other colored stones make these figures glimmer in the sun. We then walked across to the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, a 5th century Roman empress. The lintel above the outer door is a marble frieze depicting a pagan scene and obviously from a much earlier building
.This is thought to be the first building to be decorated with mosaic artwork. While it now only houses empty sarcophagi, it isn’t actually known if she was ever buried there or not. All interior décor is mosaic. The ceiling is dark blue with a design rather like a Persian rug.
The central dome depicts a dark blue sky with glittering gold stars and a gold cross in the center.
On opposite sides are lunettes with deer and lakes in reference to Psalm 46. A mosaic of San Lorenzo occupies the spot of Galla Placidia’s sarcophagus.
Over the entrance door is Christ the Good Shepherd dressed in gold and purple and surrounded by a flock of sheep.
Even though lighting is kept to a minimum, the impressive intricacy of the mosaics is evident.
After leaving the basilica, we walked through town and into the Piazza del Popolo with the city hall at one end.
Not far away was the market. From there we went visited the Tomba di Dante, a neoclassical structure erected here in 1780 in honor of the great Italian poet who died here of malaria in 1321 while exiled from Florence.
During WWII, the body was removed from the tomb and buried in an adjacent garden to protect it in case of attack. Our last stop was Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo built in the early 500s.
Dedicated to the patron saint of Ravenna, this rectangular church has mosaic processions on the upper walls of each side of the nave. The upper portion of the left-had wall contains small depictions of Christ’s miracles and parables. Below is a procession of 22 virgins, each one’s white dress different from the others,
being led by the Magi, three men in oriental attire. As this predates the custom of depicting one of the wise men as a black man, none of the three is.
They move toward the enthroned Madonna holding the Christ Child. On the opposite wall are small pictures of Christ’s passion and resurrection. Below them 26 martyrs process toward Christ the Redeemer.
In some places, it is possible to see the shadows of earlier works underneath the present ones because of an attempt to obliterate images of Emperor Theodoric.
We then walked back to the bus and rode back to the ship arriving about 11:45. There were lots of windsurfers and sailboats in the harbor area and they were having a great time in the brisk breeze.
KORKULA, CROATIA
We docked in Korkula shortly after 7:00 and got ready for our tour of Korkula and Lumbarda. At 9:00 we met our guide and began our walking tour of Korkula, the town. We found the guide very difficult to understand and missed quite a bit of information. The island of Korcula is separated from the Peljesac Peninsula of the mainland by a channel only 1270 meters wide. Although the island is known for averaging 3000 hours of sunlight a year, the day was overcast and we carried umbrellas. Medieval walls with round towers still surround the oldest part of Korkula.
We walked to the main entrance to the old town known as the Land Gate where we ascended a 19th century stairway to enter the walled portion.
Here the streets are narrow and somewhat deceptive; those on the south side of the main street were straight as they stretched toward the water to allow the cooling winds into the city while those on the north curved to blunt the colder winds of winter.
We stopped across from the Town Hall and looked into St. Michael’s Church.
All the buildings in the area are former palaces of rich and/or noble families now put to other uses. One is a museum of city life which has the kitchen on the upper floor as required by law in the 1300s in order for the smoke to dissipate. Facing the main square is the Cathedral of St. Mark, a less-than-impressive-building scrunched on top of the hill. It has Venetian lions and Adam and Eve carved near the entrance.
Inside the dark structure a painting of "St. Mark with St. Jerome and St. Bartholomew" by Tintoretto hangs above the altar.
The adjacent St. Roch’s Chapel contains an altar composed of various colored marbles.
From here we walked a little farther to the house locally reputed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, although there is no historical proof.
We then walked down a street, really a series of steps, to exit the walled portion. There wasn’t a lot to see in the town. By modern standards it seemed small and all scrunched atop the hill. As we were making our way to the bus, a rain shower caught us and we huddled on the post office porch for a few minutes. Then we walked to the bus station, boarded the tour bus, and rode about 3 ½ miles to the small village of Lumbarda where we visited a winery and sampled cheese, prosciutto, red and white wine.
After a brief drive through the village, we returned to the town of Korkula about 11:45. We decided to walk back into town before returning to the ship. Wanting to see the Icon Gallery, we walked back to the old town and followed a French tour into the Brotherhood of All Saints building and up to the second floor. After paying our entrance fee, we sat on hard benches and listened to the French tour guide for a long time before the group moved on. Then we looked at the dozen or so Byzantine icons from the 13th to the 15th centuries which were hanging around the room. The most impressive picture there was a huge version of The Last Supper which took up one entire wall. We then climbed up several steps and crossed a bridge over the narrow street and went down steps to enter a church. Inside All Saints’ Church an 18th century carved wooden "Sorrowing Virgin" by George Raphael Donner sits behind the altar. The carving is so smooth that the piece looks like it’s carved of marble.
To the altar’s left is a large carved and painted Byzantine rood. On the right hangs an impressive 13th century polyptych by Blad Trogiranin showing an adoration of the Virgin.
The bright gold of these pieces shines even in the dark church. The church’s ceiling is composed of carved panels with 17th century paintings and around the choir loft are paintings of the apostles. After leaving the church, we walked back up steps and into the main streets of the old town and window shopped. It was an overcast and dreary day with intermittent rain and drizzle. As we sailed, the Captain announced there might be “some movement” of the ship during the night; he’s the master of the understatement. We tried dinner but gave up on the second course because of the motion and went to the cabin. Once there, we crawled into bed and stayed.
We walked to the main entrance to the old town known as the Land Gate where we ascended a 19th century stairway to enter the walled portion.
Here the streets are narrow and somewhat deceptive; those on the south side of the main street were straight as they stretched toward the water to allow the cooling winds into the city while those on the north curved to blunt the colder winds of winter.
We stopped across from the Town Hall and looked into St. Michael’s Church.
All the buildings in the area are former palaces of rich and/or noble families now put to other uses. One is a museum of city life which has the kitchen on the upper floor as required by law in the 1300s in order for the smoke to dissipate. Facing the main square is the Cathedral of St. Mark, a less-than-impressive-building scrunched on top of the hill. It has Venetian lions and Adam and Eve carved near the entrance.
Inside the dark structure a painting of "St. Mark with St. Jerome and St. Bartholomew" by Tintoretto hangs above the altar.
The adjacent St. Roch’s Chapel contains an altar composed of various colored marbles.
From here we walked a little farther to the house locally reputed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, although there is no historical proof.
We then walked down a street, really a series of steps, to exit the walled portion. There wasn’t a lot to see in the town. By modern standards it seemed small and all scrunched atop the hill. As we were making our way to the bus, a rain shower caught us and we huddled on the post office porch for a few minutes. Then we walked to the bus station, boarded the tour bus, and rode about 3 ½ miles to the small village of Lumbarda where we visited a winery and sampled cheese, prosciutto, red and white wine.
After a brief drive through the village, we returned to the town of Korkula about 11:45. We decided to walk back into town before returning to the ship. Wanting to see the Icon Gallery, we walked back to the old town and followed a French tour into the Brotherhood of All Saints building and up to the second floor. After paying our entrance fee, we sat on hard benches and listened to the French tour guide for a long time before the group moved on. Then we looked at the dozen or so Byzantine icons from the 13th to the 15th centuries which were hanging around the room. The most impressive picture there was a huge version of The Last Supper which took up one entire wall. We then climbed up several steps and crossed a bridge over the narrow street and went down steps to enter a church. Inside All Saints’ Church an 18th century carved wooden "Sorrowing Virgin" by George Raphael Donner sits behind the altar. The carving is so smooth that the piece looks like it’s carved of marble.
To the altar’s left is a large carved and painted Byzantine rood. On the right hangs an impressive 13th century polyptych by Blad Trogiranin showing an adoration of the Virgin.
The bright gold of these pieces shines even in the dark church. The church’s ceiling is composed of carved panels with 17th century paintings and around the choir loft are paintings of the apostles. After leaving the church, we walked back up steps and into the main streets of the old town and window shopped. It was an overcast and dreary day with intermittent rain and drizzle. As we sailed, the Captain announced there might be “some movement” of the ship during the night; he’s the master of the understatement. We tried dinner but gave up on the second course because of the motion and went to the cabin. Once there, we crawled into bed and stayed.
We rocked and rolled all night long. Even though the Captain had announced that things would improve after we changed course at 9:00, there was no noticeable difference. We knew when we entered the fjord after 6:00 this morning. Kotor, Montenegro lies at the base of the only fjord in the Mediterranean and we enjoyed part of the beautiful sail along this waterway. The steep, rocky mountainsides create quite a backdrop for a few settlements clinging to the narrow strip between them and the water.
We could also see traffic making its way along a road which seemed to follow the coastline. We went to the deck outside the Horizon Lounge to watch the actual sailing into the city. It’s possible to see the medieval-walled old town as well as the walls snaking their way up the rocky mountainside to enclose a church and a fort.
At 9:00 we met our tour, "Seaside Resorts of Sveti Stefan and Budva," met our guide Sanya, and boarded a bus. We drove past the medieval gate to the old fortified town and through a more modern area as we headed south along the coast. Two tunnels were included in our route. The countryside we passed through looked unprosperous with many incomplete and seemingly abandoned building projects.. Although we were told that many earn their livelihoods from agriculture, we could see very little evidence of this either. The erose coastline provided scenic vistas with some white, sandy beaches and several areas which seemed to have surf. About a half hour after leaving, we reached a photo stop for the resort of Sveti Stefan situated on an island connected to the mainland by a causeway; evidently this is where celebrities holiday.
Then we turned around and returned to the town of Budva, considered to be one of the oldest settlements in the Balkans. A fifteenth century city wall surrounds narrow streets and a square fronted by four churches.
We went inside the Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity
and the Catholic one;
the other two small ones were closed. It rained. Most of the shops closed or shuttered themselves against the rain and we spent our half hour of free time walking down wet streets and bypassing souvenir stores. Then we reboarded the bus to retrace our route to Kotor. Arriving back at the ship about noon, we decided to explore the old town. After walking across the street, we wandered through the cobble-stoned streets of Old Town Kotor in search of handmade items.
We stopped in The Church of Santa Clare and St. Lucas’ Orthodox Church
before finding a shop selling embroidery. Then we waded along other streets looking at the stonework and the architecture. At St. Tryphon’s Roman Catholic Cathedral we paid the admission and went inside to admire the interior.
The ciborium, or high altar, is a masterwork of intricately carved marble from the 1300s.
Behind the main altar is a “gold painting” which consists of twenty saints in bas-relief. This masterpiece was completed by Kotor goldsmiths in the first half of the 15th century.
Other side altars also hold similar works in silver. Perhaps because the interior was originally painted by Greeks, it has a somewhat Orthodox feel. Then we climbed the steps to the museum where we saw more icons, reliquaries, paintings, illuminated books, vestments, and other treasures. Because this museum is housed on the balconies on each side of the nave, we had to go outside and across the front of the church to see both parts of it, and this allowed a close-up view of the rosette on the cathedral’s façade.
After leaving the church, we sloshed our way on through the town and window shopped as we went.
Montenegro seems to be less prosperous than Croatia or Slovenia. The people here seem to be more Greek than Slavic and many of the signs are in both Cyrillic and Latin alphabets. We also encountered fewer English speakers here than in the other countries. The the Captain announced that we should be saluted by church bells from islands near the fjord’s mouth as we sailed out, so we stayed on deck for that.
The weather seems to have cleared and we hope it stays as calm as it is.
We could also see traffic making its way along a road which seemed to follow the coastline. We went to the deck outside the Horizon Lounge to watch the actual sailing into the city. It’s possible to see the medieval-walled old town as well as the walls snaking their way up the rocky mountainside to enclose a church and a fort.
At 9:00 we met our tour, "Seaside Resorts of Sveti Stefan and Budva," met our guide Sanya, and boarded a bus. We drove past the medieval gate to the old fortified town and through a more modern area as we headed south along the coast. Two tunnels were included in our route. The countryside we passed through looked unprosperous with many incomplete and seemingly abandoned building projects.. Although we were told that many earn their livelihoods from agriculture, we could see very little evidence of this either. The erose coastline provided scenic vistas with some white, sandy beaches and several areas which seemed to have surf. About a half hour after leaving, we reached a photo stop for the resort of Sveti Stefan situated on an island connected to the mainland by a causeway; evidently this is where celebrities holiday.
Then we turned around and returned to the town of Budva, considered to be one of the oldest settlements in the Balkans. A fifteenth century city wall surrounds narrow streets and a square fronted by four churches.
We went inside the Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity
and the Catholic one;
the other two small ones were closed. It rained. Most of the shops closed or shuttered themselves against the rain and we spent our half hour of free time walking down wet streets and bypassing souvenir stores. Then we reboarded the bus to retrace our route to Kotor. Arriving back at the ship about noon, we decided to explore the old town. After walking across the street, we wandered through the cobble-stoned streets of Old Town Kotor in search of handmade items.
We stopped in The Church of Santa Clare and St. Lucas’ Orthodox Church
before finding a shop selling embroidery. Then we waded along other streets looking at the stonework and the architecture. At St. Tryphon’s Roman Catholic Cathedral we paid the admission and went inside to admire the interior.
The ciborium, or high altar, is a masterwork of intricately carved marble from the 1300s.
Behind the main altar is a “gold painting” which consists of twenty saints in bas-relief. This masterpiece was completed by Kotor goldsmiths in the first half of the 15th century.
Other side altars also hold similar works in silver. Perhaps because the interior was originally painted by Greeks, it has a somewhat Orthodox feel. Then we climbed the steps to the museum where we saw more icons, reliquaries, paintings, illuminated books, vestments, and other treasures. Because this museum is housed on the balconies on each side of the nave, we had to go outside and across the front of the church to see both parts of it, and this allowed a close-up view of the rosette on the cathedral’s façade.
After leaving the church, we sloshed our way on through the town and window shopped as we went.
Montenegro seems to be less prosperous than Croatia or Slovenia. The people here seem to be more Greek than Slavic and many of the signs are in both Cyrillic and Latin alphabets. We also encountered fewer English speakers here than in the other countries. The the Captain announced that we should be saluted by church bells from islands near the fjord’s mouth as we sailed out, so we stayed on deck for that.
The weather seems to have cleared and we hope it stays as calm as it is.
When we awoke we thought we were sailing into Sibenik. We got ready for our tour, "Highlights of Trogir;" we were not docking. Then the Captain announced that we were actually moored in the harbor of Vodice, a small fishing village because wind conditions prevented the ship from navigating the narrow channel into Sibenik’s harbor.
Everything was still operational and we took the first tender ashore and boarded the bus; our guide was Gorijana or Yana. We traveled along the coastal road enjoying the scenery while Yana narrated. We saw a few fish farms and other areas where Yana says they “farm” mussels using ropes in the water for them to attach themselves to. In one area we passed vineyards so ancient each small, rectangular plot is surrounded by a stone wall; an aerial photo of this is in the UN Building in NYC. Upon reaching Trogir, we left the bus and walked a causeway to the medieval town.
Our first stop was the Cathedral of St. Lawrence erected in the 13th century.
The marble portal is a masterpiece of carving by a local artist named Radovan or his students. Marble lions and statues of Adam and Eve flank the door. The lunette above the door shows the Nativity. Above that is an arch with scenes of Christ’s miracles and the outer arch shows His passion.
No surface is left unadorned. Once inside the Romanesque building, we saw magnificently carved oak choir stalls flanking the main altar. The actual name of the church is The Cathedral of Mary, Queen of Heaven but the locals call it St. Lawrence because he is the patron saint of the town. The marble ciborium has statues of the Angel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary representing the Annunciation.
Columns supporting the pulpit were salvaged from an earlier structure and sport capitals of interwoven animal-shaped motifs on columns of different colored stones.
A spectacular side chapel built in the 14th to 16th centuries houses the tomb of Bishop Ivan Trogirski. Seventy-six carved cherub heads appear in panels in the marble ceiling which is centered by a figure representing God the Father.
Other marble statues in the room represent angels and saints. After leaving the church, we were shown the exteriors of the Town Hall and of other buildings built during the Venetian domination.
We went over to the Loggia, a public meeting place across the square, and heard a male quintet singing a’capella.
After walking down to the promenade along the waterfront, we had free time to explore. We bought gelato and wandered several streets while eating it. Everyone was back aboard the bus by 11:50 and we began our trip back to Vodice. This time we took a roadway that was higher up the mountainside; the views were spectacular. We arrived back in Vodice about 1:00 and took the tender back to the ship.
Everything was still operational and we took the first tender ashore and boarded the bus; our guide was Gorijana or Yana. We traveled along the coastal road enjoying the scenery while Yana narrated. We saw a few fish farms and other areas where Yana says they “farm” mussels using ropes in the water for them to attach themselves to. In one area we passed vineyards so ancient each small, rectangular plot is surrounded by a stone wall; an aerial photo of this is in the UN Building in NYC. Upon reaching Trogir, we left the bus and walked a causeway to the medieval town.
Our first stop was the Cathedral of St. Lawrence erected in the 13th century.
The marble portal is a masterpiece of carving by a local artist named Radovan or his students. Marble lions and statues of Adam and Eve flank the door. The lunette above the door shows the Nativity. Above that is an arch with scenes of Christ’s miracles and the outer arch shows His passion.
No surface is left unadorned. Once inside the Romanesque building, we saw magnificently carved oak choir stalls flanking the main altar. The actual name of the church is The Cathedral of Mary, Queen of Heaven but the locals call it St. Lawrence because he is the patron saint of the town. The marble ciborium has statues of the Angel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary representing the Annunciation.
Columns supporting the pulpit were salvaged from an earlier structure and sport capitals of interwoven animal-shaped motifs on columns of different colored stones.
A spectacular side chapel built in the 14th to 16th centuries houses the tomb of Bishop Ivan Trogirski. Seventy-six carved cherub heads appear in panels in the marble ceiling which is centered by a figure representing God the Father.
Other marble statues in the room represent angels and saints. After leaving the church, we were shown the exteriors of the Town Hall and of other buildings built during the Venetian domination.
We went over to the Loggia, a public meeting place across the square, and heard a male quintet singing a’capella.
After walking down to the promenade along the waterfront, we had free time to explore. We bought gelato and wandered several streets while eating it. Everyone was back aboard the bus by 11:50 and we began our trip back to Vodice. This time we took a roadway that was higher up the mountainside; the views were spectacular. We arrived back in Vodice about 1:00 and took the tender back to the ship.
OPATIJA, CROATIA
We sailed into a bay and moored in the harbor of Opatija. We got ready to meet our tour, "Picturesque Opatija & Moscenice," at 8:45. We met our Daria, our guide, on the pier after tendering ashore and she led us on a walking tour through the seaside town of Opatija. This was once the playground of royalty and celebrities and was even thought of as a health spa by some. We walked through a beautiful park
and saw the Villa Angiolina
before walking along the promenade to see some of the seaside hotels and the beaches.
We stopped at the historic Sv. Jakov (Church of St. James) and went inside.
In one spot we saw some portraits of famous personalities who visited during the resort’s heyday. Then we boarded a bus for a thirty-minute ride along the coast toward the medieval town of Moscenice. To reach it we had to drive up the hillside because it is over 1300 meters above the coast.
Here we met Vessa, a local guide and resident, who took us through the walled town which has 200 residents occupying its 67 homes.
Just inside the main gate topped by the Hapsburg coat of arms, the main street is only two meters wide.
We stopped at the Sv. Andrije (Church of St. Andrew) where the local priest welcomed us and told us of the church and its history; Vessa translated.
After making some photos, we followed Vessa through the town stopping to make photos of the panoramic sea view far below.
We tasted grappa at the site of an old olive oil mill before exiting the town. Just across the street we enjoyed ham, cheese, bread, olive oil, and wine at a local restaurant before taking the bus back to Opatija. This time we took a road a little higher on the hillside. Once back in town, we left the bus and bought gelato before walking back downhill to the port where we tendered back to the ship.
and saw the Villa Angiolina
before walking along the promenade to see some of the seaside hotels and the beaches.
We stopped at the historic Sv. Jakov (Church of St. James) and went inside.
In one spot we saw some portraits of famous personalities who visited during the resort’s heyday. Then we boarded a bus for a thirty-minute ride along the coast toward the medieval town of Moscenice. To reach it we had to drive up the hillside because it is over 1300 meters above the coast.
Here we met Vessa, a local guide and resident, who took us through the walled town which has 200 residents occupying its 67 homes.
Just inside the main gate topped by the Hapsburg coat of arms, the main street is only two meters wide.
We stopped at the Sv. Andrije (Church of St. Andrew) where the local priest welcomed us and told us of the church and its history; Vessa translated.
After making some photos, we followed Vessa through the town stopping to make photos of the panoramic sea view far below.
We tasted grappa at the site of an old olive oil mill before exiting the town. Just across the street we enjoyed ham, cheese, bread, olive oil, and wine at a local restaurant before taking the bus back to Opatija. This time we took a road a little higher on the hillside. Once back in town, we left the bus and bought gelato before walking back downhill to the port where we tendered back to the ship.
VENICE, ITALY to MUNICH, GERMANY to ZURICH, SWITZERLAND
We awoke early and finished packing as soon as we dressed. At 7:00 we went to the Veranda Café for a leisurely breakfast. Then we returned to the cabin, gathered our belongings, and left the ship shortly before 8:00. After claiming our bags in the terminal, we took a cab to the airport. We arrived there shortly after 8:30 but couldn’t check in for our flight until 10:00, so we sat on a bench outside the terminal; the inside was a “fire ant bed” of activity with all the cruisers and tour people trying to check in for flights; tomorrow there will be 8 ships in port and it will be worse. When the time came, we checked in for LH 1909 leaving for Munich at 12:55. After passing through security, we went to the lounge and waited until a little after noon before going to the gate. We boarded, took our seats and waited for take-off. For some reason, we were fifteen or twenty minutes late leaving. Looking down from the plane at the snow-covered Alps sparkling in the bright sunshine and at the neat green areas below was a spectacular experience. This inept flight crew almost didn’t complete service before we landed in Munich shortly after 2:00. Once inside the terminal, we made our way to the gate to wait for LH 2370 scheduled to leave for Zurich at 3:45; this flight was on time and the crew was very competent. Once again, we had great views of beautiful green landscapes as we flew. After landing and claiming the bags, we made our way to the Radisson Blu Hotel which is connected to the terminal via an underground passage.
ZURICH & ST. GALLEN, SWITZERLAND
We made our way to the train station under the airport and bought 2 tickets for St. Gallen. We departed on the 10:22 train and enjoyed seeing the countryside. Switzerland is very green and the farms are neat. We saw lots of dairy cattle; fields of silage; bales of hay; some horses; orchards; a small vineyard; some truck farming; small vegetable plots. Our route took us through Wil and Winterthur. Upon arrival in St. Gallen, we wandered a little because we couldn’t find the tourist information office. We went uphill and a man holding a clipboard asked a long question. At our reply, “English?”, he apologized. We then asked him the location of the Textile Museum and he directed us. As we were walking down the street, a young woman stopped us and when we asked for English explained that they were filming and we had to wait. Only a couple of minutes later, they stopped filming and let us all through. We found the Textilmuseum St. Gallen in the next block. The building, built by the Chambers of Commerce of the cantons of St. Gallen and Appenzeil in 1886, today houses a textile museum; a textile library; a drawing college. Today the museum and library are owned by the "Foundation of the St. Gallen-Appenzeil Chamber of Trade and Industry" and the drawing college is a part of the "Swiss Textile College." The young lady at the desk suggested we begin on the 2nd floor [our 3rd] as that’s where the oldest lace was displayed. Lace was somewhat of a Renaissance invention and fashion became a way for the wealthy to display their worth. We found an incredible display of lace from as early as 1500. Many pieces were accompanied by copies of pictures from the time period showing the use. All had labels keyed to our English guide to tell the type and origin and the displays were arranged in chronological order. Hundreds of pieces of lace were displayed inside cases in the three rooms and we marveled at the intricacies of their designs. . After looking there, we went to the floor below to see modern machine-made lace as well as a display of pattern books. The Textile Library housing pattern books from machine embroidery, weaving and textile printing as well as textile designs, fashion drawing, fashion photographs and literature on textiles and art is also on this floor. On the lower floor, we found a lady using one of the lace-making machines as well as several small examples. The museum was the reason for this trip and it was well worth the effort. We left the building and wandered around a little looking for a place for lunch. After eating, we returned to the train station where we bought tickets for Zurich. We had time to buy some chocolates from a shop and a bottle of water from another. We took the 2:11 train back to our morning’s starting point and then made our way back to the hotel. The next day we flew from Zurich to Frankfurt so that we could catch the flight to DFW the following morning.
ZURICH & ST. GALLEN, SWITZERLAND
We made our way to the train station under the airport and bought 2 tickets for St. Gallen. We departed on the 10:22 train and enjoyed seeing the countryside. Switzerland is very green and the farms are neat. We saw lots of dairy cattle; fields of silage; bales of hay; some horses; orchards; a small vineyard; some truck farming; small vegetable plots. Our route took us through Wil and Winterthur. Upon arrival in St. Gallen, we wandered a little because we couldn’t find the tourist information office. We went uphill and a man holding a clipboard asked a long question. At our reply, “English?”, he apologized. We then asked him the location of the Textile Museum and he directed us. As we were walking down the street, a young woman stopped us and when we asked for English explained that they were filming and we had to wait. Only a couple of minutes later, they stopped filming and let us all through. We found the Textilmuseum St. Gallen in the next block. The building, built by the Chambers of Commerce of the cantons of St. Gallen and Appenzeil in 1886, today houses a textile museum; a textile library; a drawing college. Today the museum and library are owned by the "Foundation of the St. Gallen-Appenzeil Chamber of Trade and Industry" and the drawing college is a part of the "Swiss Textile College." The young lady at the desk suggested we begin on the 2nd floor [our 3rd] as that’s where the oldest lace was displayed. Lace was somewhat of a Renaissance invention and fashion became a way for the wealthy to display their worth. We found an incredible display of lace from as early as 1500. Many pieces were accompanied by copies of pictures from the time period showing the use. All had labels keyed to our English guide to tell the type and origin and the displays were arranged in chronological order. Hundreds of pieces of lace were displayed inside cases in the three rooms and we marveled at the intricacies of their designs. . After looking there, we went to the floor below to see modern machine-made lace as well as a display of pattern books. The Textile Library housing pattern books from machine embroidery, weaving and textile printing as well as textile designs, fashion drawing, fashion photographs and literature on textiles and art is also on this floor. On the lower floor, we found a lady using one of the lace-making machines as well as several small examples. The museum was the reason for this trip and it was well worth the effort. We left the building and wandered around a little looking for a place for lunch. After eating, we returned to the train station where we bought tickets for Zurich. We had time to buy some chocolates from a shop and a bottle of water from another. We took the 2:11 train back to our morning’s starting point and then made our way back to the hotel. The next day we flew from Zurich to Frankfurt so that we could catch the flight to DFW the following morning.
