COMPLETE MISSISSIPPI RIVER CRUISE
22 May - 14 June 2025
I booked a 21-day cruise on American Cruise Lines. It began in New Orleans, Louisiana and ended in Red Wing, Minnesota.
Thursday 22 May – I chose to fly to New Orleans a day early. My hotel, the “Intercontinental Hotel,” was booked by ACL. The rest of Thursday and all day Friday were spent enjoying one of my favorite cities. I enjoyed beignets at “Cafe du Monde,”
I went to “Mother’s Restaurant” for a ham dinner one night and for Cajun food the next.
As expected, the “French Quarter” was pretty much the same. “Aunt Sally’s Pralines” was still turning out their sweet treats
and the jazz combo was playing across from “Jackson Square.”
Saturday 24 May - Embarkation Day - Once aboard the "American Melody," I checked out my stateroom (619) and went to lunch.
After the mandatory egress drill, there was a sail away party.
Then I returned to the stateroom to change before HH and dinner. Chris Hall, the onboard lecturer, spoke on the “Early History of the Mississippi River.”
Sunday May 25 - Vacherie, LA – My morning tour was “Ca c’est non - Cajun Culinary Lagniappe Experience at the Cajun Village” at 9:30. When the captain gave a briefing at 8, he said the temperature would be in the 90s today and that it would be humid. Duh! Once there, Bruce entertained with some Cajun jokes and facts. We stood on the back porch as he explained various ways to catch crawfish and frogs. Returning inside, we paired up to cook T-pot Jambalaya. When it just needed to simmer, we left and walked from that building down a wooden walkway, and behind the “Black Market Trading Company” to watch as a lady threw meat to two huge alligators. About 11:30, the jambalaya was done. We sampled it—not bad—and Corn Maque Choux which Bruce’s wife made; beignets and chicory coffee were served. At noon we reboarded the motor coach for the return drive to the riverboat.
At 5, I went to hear Chris give an overview of Baton Rouge and Thania talked about tomorrow’s tours. Then I went to cocktail hour and dinner. After dinner, “Flashback” performed “Boogie Nights” with 70’s music.
Monday 26 May - Baton Rouge, LA - It was Memorial Day. The tour to the “Louisiana Museum of Rural Life” began at 9. During the short drive, Erica, our guide, provided commentary. Upon arrival, we were on our own until 11:15. This gave me plenty of time to see some exhibits I missed last year as well as to take a closer look at some other exhibits. It was hot and humid but the heat wasn’t oppressive.
When I finished, I sat in a rocking chair on the front porch. We returned to the riverboat, and I went to put things in my stateroom before going to the Memorial Day Buffet: watermelon, coleslaw, baked beans, bbq brisket, Bloody Mary, coffee. Chris spoke about the Mississippi River at 4. During her talk, she explained navigating it, dredging the channel, and the locks on the upper river. She also covered historic floods and levees. She emphasized the economic impact of the cargo transported via the waterway.
Next Chris talked about St. Francisville, tomorrow’s port. After cocktail hour, dinner was with the same table mates as last night. Colin gave a brief Memorial Day tribute before Thania recapped tomorrow’s tours. Judy Whitney Davis was the speaker of the evening; she was as wonderful and entertaining as I remembered. Her thought provoking remarks and message to care for others were delivered in an often humorous but effective manner.
Tuesday 27 May - St. Francisville, LA - I awoke to thunderstorms; you’d have thought I was in Texas. The sun was shining by 8:30. Can you spell HUMIDITY? After breakfast, I sat in the lounge until the housekeeper finished. Lunch was Cochon de Lait, a Cajun pig roast, served in the dining room. My afternoon tour included “Rosedown” and “Catalpa” plantations. Brenda was our local guide but really only rode the bus with us and made sure we kept to the schedule. “Rosedown,” built by Daniel and Martha Trumbull, was our first stop. It hasn’t changed much since my visit over 25 years ago. It now belongs to the State of Louisiana and is operated by the parks department. We enjoyed an excellent tour.
We reboarded the bus and drove to “Catalpa.” The current owner of “Catalpa” is Mary Thompson, a descendant of the Trumbulls of “Rosedown,” and “Catalpa” contains some furnishings that were originally at “Rosedown.” "Catalpa,” built in 1898 after a fire destroyed the original house, is a private home and not a museum. The tour was conducted by the owner and her friends; it ended with a glass of sherry.
Once back aboard the riverboat, it was time to change for cocktail hour and dinner. “Cajun Fiddle Frenzy” entertained after dinner.
Wednesday 28 May - Natchez, MS - My “Historic Path to Freedom” tour began at 9:30. Celia was our guide.
Natchez Trace Monument atop Bluff
Our first stop was the “William Johnson House,” now a state park. Johnson was a freedman; he was a very successful barber and popular with both Blacks and Whites.
Next we stopped at the “Museum of African American Culture” housed in a 1905 Post Office.
We stopped at "Forks of the Road" the second-largest domestic slave market in the Deep South. It operated from 1833 to 1863.
At “Zion Chapel AME Church,” the pastor, Rev. Birdon Mitchell, Jr., explained the history of the denomination, that congregation, and the Civil Rights movement of the 1960s. Leo Newton, the music director sang a cappella; later the pastor played the organ.
Our last stop was the “Parchman Memorial” erected to commemorate the imprisonment of 250 Blacks for holding a peaceful meeting.
Lunch was aboard the riverboat. My afternoon tour was “Legends and Libations.” There were two stops. At “Linden” we were served Milk Punch and toured a few rooms.
We returned to the riverboat in time for Chris’ port talk on Vicksburg, cocktail hour, and dinner. Clouds rolled in, the sky turned dark, and it began to rain. After dinner, Thania reviewed tomorrow’s excursions. Mark Farris presented an enjoyable evening using video and his remarkable piano expertise.
Mark Farris
Thursday 29 May - Vicksburg, MS - The “Antebellum Vicksburg Experience” began at 9:30. We were fortunate to have 2 guides: Janice and Sherlene. They provided commentary as we drove through town, and we learned that the entire downtown of Vicksburg is protected; no buildings may be demolished and the exteriors must not be altered. At “Christ Episcopal Church,” our first stop. Reverend Samuel Godfrey, the priest gave an interesting history of the church and pointed out two Tiffany windows. He also told of the church’s role in housing wounded Union soldiers during the Civil War.
From the church, we walked next door to the “Duff Green House” where the owner gave the history of the house, its occupants, it’s various remodeling, and its current use as a bed and breakfast.
Our last stop was a reconstructed cave similar to the one Vicksburg residents lived in from May 18 to July 4, 1863 when the Union Army lay siege to the city.
We returned to the ship in time for lunch. At 4, Chris talked about “The Golden Age of Steamboats.” We enjoyed cocktail hour before dinner. The show, “O Gracious…Y’all Come,” was bluegrass music.
Friday 30 May - Greenville, MS - My tour to the “B. B. King Museum and Delta Interpretative Center” in Indianola departed at 8:30. I was a little concerned because there were news reports of random shootings in Greenville, but we had no problems on the tour. I was told that there were police officers near the levee entrance during the morning. Carolyn, our guide, worked for the Visitors Center. During the half-hour-plus drive, she spoke of the history of the area. It’s agricultural with acres of corn fields and soybean fields. Many of the structures are dilapidated. It poured rain during the drive but became a slight drizzle as we arrived at our destination. The museum is the jewel of the entire area. Interesting and well-organized exhibits combined with succinct videos to tell the story of B. B. King’s life.
Lunch was aboard the riverboat. During the afternoon's culinary demonstration, pastry chef Marcus showed us how to make pralines. They were delicious.
Chris spoke on the “Archeology of the Lower Mississippi River” before talking briefly about Tunica, tomorrow’s port. After cocktail hour and dinner, Thania gave information about tomorrow’s tours. Mark’s musical performance was “A Night on Broadway.” He is an amazingly talented musician.
Saturday 31 May - Tunica, MS - The “Tunica River Park and Museum” tour began at 9; it was a self-guided tour within walking distance of the riverboat. The museum was nothing to write home about. The information was beneficial, but some displays would have been more meaningful with lighting. When asked if the lights could be turned on, the attendant said, “They don’t work.” It was cold enough inside to hang meat. After watching a video and making a few pictures inside and from the observation deck, I rode a golf cart back to the riverboat.
We made a photo stop at “Sun Studio” to see where Elvis recorded his first record.
Our next stop was the ”Peabody Hotel” to see the ducks march. I watched from the mezzanine.
We then drove to the “National Civil Rights Museum,” attached to the “Lorainne Motel.” We didn’t enter the museum but saw the exterior where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated.
We were also shown the exterior of the building where James Earl Ray hid to fire the shot.
Shot from the small window in the rear of the building.
Lunch was across the street at “Central Barbecue.”
From there it was a short walk to Beale Street to check out the bars and shops. The “Memphis Rock and Roll Hall of Fame” was only a little more than 2 blocks away. Not worth the walk.
Leaving the area, we headed to the “Pyramid,” home to “Bass Pro Shops.”
A short drive had us back at the riverboat by 4:45. After changing, I went to cocktail hour and to dinner. The show was “Unforgettable, Part I” sung by Terrell Edwards.
I played “Trivia” and “Heads Up” before Chris’ “Tragedy and Disaster on the Mississippi River” talk. Cocktail hour and dinner preceded Thania’s rundown of tomorrow’s shore excursions. Mark began his “Songbook Americana” at 8:30. Before 9pm we sailed through the confluence of the Ohio River with the Mississippi River.
Tuesday 3 June - Cape Girardeau, MO - We arrived at Cape Girardeau with a bump at 6am. The sky was sorta hazy; the temperature was in the low 70s; there was a slight breeze. With a population of about 40,000, Cape Girardeau is the largest city between Memphis and St. Louis. The “Mural Walk” tour began at 9:30. A dixieland band welcomed us.
The tour wasn’t much. Linda, the guide, knew her script but couldn’t really answer questions asked by the group. The history of the city is depicted in panels painted on the inside of the flood wall. I wound up taking pictures of the panels and the explanation plaques. (The photos may not be in chronological order.)
The temperature was in the low-80s, but the wall blocked the breeze; it felt more humid than it probably was. Chris spoke on “Pearls, Mussels, and Shells” at 4. Cocktail hour and dinner preceded Terrell Edwards’ second show, “Unforgettable, Part 2.”
Wednesday 4 June - Rolling on the River - After breakfast, I returned to my stateroom and sat on my balcony until a light rain began. The railroad parallels the river. There are many quarries, some grain silos, and other industrial installations visible. Many tow boats with various numbers of barges barges plied te river heading in both directions. In some areas, large houses topped the bluffs. At 11, I played “Name That Tune.” We stopped near an isolated landing near Kimmswick, MO; it’s about 35 miles South of St. Louis. It seems ACL might be considering it as an alternative to St. Louis—big mistake.
We arrived at the Arch Street - Poplar Street Landing in St. Louis about 3:15
Then I went to hear Chris’s talk “Human History on the Upper Mississippi River” and the port preview of St. Louis. Cocktail hour and dinner followed. The night’s entertainment was Mark Klein, a comedian.
Thursday 5 June - St. Louis, MO - Having done the city tour last year, I had a lazy morning aboard. At 10, I went to play “Classic Movie Trivia;” only 5 showed up, so it wasn’t really a contest. The “St. Louis Art Museum” tour began at 1:45.
What a wonderful museum! There are 3 levels; I saw most of the second level and part of the first—never made it to the third. The highlight for me was a “Monet Waterlily” painting. It was about 6 ½ feet tall and 14 feet wide and is the center panel of a triptych.
We returned to the riverboat shortly after 5. Cocktail hour and dinner preceded Mark’s “70s Show.”
Friday 6 June - Rolling on the River - ‘Twas an overcast and dreary morning. While I was eating breakfast, we went through the canal created to bypass the “Chain of Rocks Bridge.” As we made our way upriver, several tow boats with empty barges were tied up alongside the shore. Lock 26–the first of many--and a singularly unexciting experience—was entered about 9. Just upriver from Alton, Illinois is the pictograph known as “the Piasa Bird.” Chris gave a very interesting presentation about “Archeology on the Upper Mississippi River” before giving a port preview of Hannibal, Missouri. After cocktail hour and dinner, I went to hear Thania’s port preview and skipped the “Not So Newlywed Game.”
Saturday 7 June - Hannibal, MO - The “Stroll with Mark Twain” began at 10. Richard Garey, the actor portraying Mark Twain gave an excellent tour. We saw the interior of the boyhood home, and he pointed out other historic buildings and sites along Hill Street. It was almost as if Twain himself were giving the tour.
My “Hannibal City Exploration with Rockcliffe Mansion” tour began at 1:30. Barb, our guide, was giving her first tour. She pointed out neighborhoods and specific buildings as we drove uphill to Rockcliffe Mansion. Abandoned for many years, it is still in the process of being restored. Now a bed-and-breakfast, most of the furnishings are original—and in need of refurbishment. The interior is dark and the period lighting fixtures really don't dispel that dreary feeling.
We arrived back at the riverboat in rain and had to wade water to get from the parking lot to the gangway.
At 4, Van Ann Moore, an actress, portrayed “Margaret—The Incredible Molly Brown,” who was born in Hannibal. During her excellent, professional, and informative performance; we learned that her name wasn’t really Molly and that very little in “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” is factual.
After cocktail hour and dinner, Richard Garey presented “Mark Twain HIMSELF.” He portrayed Twain and wove anecdotes from his writings into an enjoyable, and hilarious (at times) hour of entertainment.
Sunday 8 June - Rolling on the River - It was a lazy day aboard as we sailed north from Hannibal, Missouri toward Muscatine, Iowa. Locks and bridges quickly lose their allure; I don’t care how unique. We played “Name That Tune” with Mark before lunch. After lunch, we played “Trivia.” Mark hosted again. I skipped “Bingo.” The beautiful sunny day became overcast during the early afternoon and some rain fell. “The Grand Excursion of 1854” was the topic of Chris’ afternoon talk. It was a huge public relations event celebrating the completion of the "Chicago and Rock Island Railroad," which made it possible to travel from the east coast to the Mississippi River by rail. The promoters were encouraging people to invest in the railroad and the west. Participants took the railroad to Rock Island, Illinois where they boarded 5 steamboats and sailed to St. Paul, Minnesota. After that, Chris previewed tomorrow’s port, Muscatine, Iowa. Cocktail hour and dinner were followed by Thania’s overview of tomorrow’s shore excursions. Mark provided the evening’s entertainment: “Your Songs, Your Requests: The Show.”
Monday 9 June - Muscatine, Iowa - The morning temperature was 55 with an anticipated high of 72. Muscatine is known for cantaloupes, which are sometimes called muskmelons, and for watermelons.
Muscatine was also the premier manufacturer for “pearl buttons,” which were made from mussel shells.
The “Pine Creek Grist Mill” excursion began at 8:45. Skies were mostly cloudy, and the wind was gusting to 15mph. Heather was our guide as we drove from the town to the grist mill; it’s the oldest in the state and on the “National Register of Historic Places.” She explained its history and operation.
The “Melpine Schoolhouse“has been moved to the site.
The drive along the river and through woods made it easy to see why farmers were attracted to the area. Agriculture is still evident as we saw soybean and corn fields.
“Classic Movie Trivia” was at 2. We continued our journey through several different types of locks. “Art of the Mississippi River” was the topic for Chris’ afternoon presentation. She covered: John James Audubon and birds; George Catlin and Indians; Seth Eastman with Dakota Indians and forts; George Caleb Bingham with western life and flatboats; Fanny Palmer with lithography; John Banvard and his panorama of the Mississippi River; Alfred Waud and the Civil War and the West; John Stobart and maritime; Michael Blaser with rivers and lakes. We passed the “Arsenal” at Rock Island, Illinois during cocktail hour.
After dinner, Travis Turpin, a singer, entertained.
Tuesday 10 June - Dubuque, Iowa - The “Delight in Dubuque” tour began at 8:30. Gerda, Dubuque’s original tour guide, took us through the city.
Our first stop was “Steeple Square Event Center,” the former “Saint Mary’s Catholic Church,” which was erected by Germans. The building is beautiful—never saw stained glass windows in a restroom before.
The second stop was the 53 acre “Dubuque Arboretum and Botanical Garden.” Docents provided guided tours,
Driving back into town, we visited “Convivium Urban Farmstead” where the director demonstrated how to grow food crops in home landscapes.
Our final stop was a funicular, The “Fenelon Place Elevator;” the shortest and steepest railway in the US is on a 45 degree angle. Its original purpose was to allow the wealthy businessmen to travel between home and business without having to take a circuitous route up the bluff in their carriages.
“Mississippi Minutiae” (trivia) was at 4; and the prize was one of Chris’ signed and numbered limited edition prints. After the port preview for Winona, Minnesota, next up were cocktail hour and dinner. Thania presented an overview of tomorrow’s excursions. Mark had lost his voice, so tonight’s entertainment was “Melody Dance Party.”
Wednesday 11 June - Winona, Minnesota - We made an unscheduled stop in Lacrosse to allow a medical evacuation. We bumped hard into “Winona Levee Park Landing” at noon. My “Downtown Walking Experience” tour began at 2pm with Mary Alice as our guide. She mostly pointed out the architecture.
We entered “Merchants National Bank” to see the stained glass and the old vault.
and continued to “WNB Financial” founded by the Watkins family. (J. B. Watkins founded the door-to-door sales company in 1868.) The imposing building is over 100 years old. We saw the old vault and stained glass.
Upstairs in the board room were Mrs. Watkins’ hunting rifles and trophies from African safaris.
After a stop in the historical society museum,
I walked back to the riverboat. All the stained glass was made locally. Cocktail hour and dinner were followed by “Judy Garland at 100.” Hannah Timm presented Judy Garland’s life story by singing and using film clips.
Thursday 12 June - Rolling on the River - We sailed at 8. Much of the morning was spent watching scenery and eagles as we sailed upriver.
Smoke from the Canadian wildfires created a haze. We played Trivia at 2. At 3, Mark did his final show of requests. Chris’ talk, “Women on the River,” followed. During her talk, we sailed through Lake Pepin, the widest part of the river. Cocktail hour and dinner followed. We arrived in Red Wing about 8pm. The “GiGis” presented “Doo-Wopping Down the River” after dinner.
Friday 13 June - Red Wing, Minnesota - Red Wing is 1744 river miles from New Orleans. The bend in the river there is the most acute and tows must have no more than 15 barges to navigate the curve. The “Red Wing City Exploration” tour began at 8:30. It was 51 degrees and raining. By the time we arrived at the “Sheldon Theater, the rain had almost stopped. The docent’s tour of the theater was informative and tailored for her audience.
From there, we drove to “The Red Wing Pottery Museum.” The tour guide was a collector and seemed unable to abbreviate his commentary.
“The Anderson Center at Tower View,” is an art museum and an artists’ colony.
After lunch, Jill Z. and I walked to the “St. James Hotel.” We enjoyed seeing the historic building; housekeepers showed us 3 rooms. Every room has a name and each room is different.
We walked another block and found an interesting fountain.
A stop at an art shop in the old depot completed our excursion. After sitting on a bench and waiting for a speeding train to clear the tracks, we crossed and walked into “Levee Park” to make a photo of the statue of a jester. The guide this morning said it’s their flood monitor and that when the water gets too high someone will put a life jacket on him.
After cocktail hour and dinner,
Chris presented a video montage of photos from the entire cruise before Thania and Collin explained tomorrow’s disembarkation and transfers. I skipped the “GiGis” performance.
Saturday 14 June - Being docked downtown has its advantages; the fact that there was a railroad crossing just outside my stateroom—not so much. Breakfast was scheduled to begin at 5:30 and airport transfers at 7:00. The drive was somewhat scenic through a landscape of undulating hills. Farmhouses, barns, silos, and grain bins provided a break from fields of soybeans. The closer we got to St. Paul the thicker the smoke from Canadian wildfires; at times I could taste it. Navigating the airport was easy The flight operated as scheduled.
