Around the World - Part 4 - Kyoto, Japan

We rode the "Bullet Train" from Tokyo to Osaka. We traveled for quite a while through Tokyo and then the area became only slightly less urban. Most of the structures were so unexceptional that it would have been difficult to know you were traveling in Japan from them. The train wasn't as smooth as the TGV, but it was comfortable; the seats reclined and there were adjustable, padded footrests. Shortly before 10:50, we saw Mt. Fuji and made some photos through the window. Manufacturing plants became smaller and more interspersed with agriculture. Rice farming in all stages lined the railway.

We walked through the Dotonbori Shopping District in Osaka.

Osaka Castle was a stronghold of the shoguns in the 1600s and rebuilt several times. Some of the stones used in building the walls reminded us of those used by the Incas because they were so large. We learned its history and climbed steps and rode an elevator to the top of the main tower reconstructed in 1931.

Kyoto served as Japan's capital before Tokyo. We went there to see the various temples. We found a modern city around the temples. Some of them seem crowded by their modern neighbors.

Ryoanji Temple’s  (Temple of the Peaceful Dragon) highlight here is a Zen Garden and we enjoyed the peacefulness of the site. The name comes from the depiction of a dragon on sliding screens within the pavilion.

 Kinahahuji Temple (The Golden Pavilion) was the residence of Shogunh Ashikaga Yoshimitsu which was converted to a Zen temple after his death in 1408. The pavilion, reflected in a lake, is a 1950s reconstruction and is covered with gold leaf; it is crowned by a phoenix. One of the interesting things was a tree which began as a bonsai but was planted in the ground after the Shogun's death; it is trimmed into the shape of a boat.

Kyoto Shosuikaku Nishijin-Ori Museum of Art, which was in a business which weaves obis. We saw examples of their work and the threads they use in their weaving; they use very fine thread to prevent the obi from being too heavy. Some are so finely woven that the faces of the figures are detailed. In addition to examples of Van Gogh's works converted to textile, the highlight was a room with a textile version of Monet's Waterlillies from "L'Orangerie" in Paris---complete with light show. We were totally amazed at the quality of the work.

Ginkakuji Temple (The Silver Pavilion) has a garden designed to be appreciated by moonlight; there was a raked garden and a Mt. Fuji of sand.

Nijo Castle originally built in 1603 for the Tokugawa Shogunate contains large rooms decorated with beautifully painted shoji screens and carved wooden transoms. Some of the rooms contain mannequins to show events that occurred there. In the public areas the floors squeak to alert of the shogun of anyone's approach; they are called "nightingale floors" but whether they actually sound like birds is questionable. 

From there we made a brief stop in the Gion area to see the shrine where Geishas pray. We saw two bridal couples having photo session and walked across a small bridge over a canal and down a narrow street.

Todaiji Temple, home to the world's largest bronze Buddha statue, (Daibutsu) is located in Nara Park. Because a deer showed the shogun where to build the temple, deer are considered messengers of the god and roam freely. We found the temple impressive and the statue's size amazing.

Kasuga Taisha Shrine is famous for the thousands of stone lanterns donated by worshipers. There were also hundreds of hanging brass lanterns; each lantern---stone or brass---has an inscription with the date and donor's name. A wedding was in progress during our visit to the shrine and we also saw two babies brought to the shrine for their "One Hundred Day Blessing;" the paternal grandmother carries and holds the baby which also gets a red dot on the forehead.

Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum contained dioramas and exhibits explained how Fushimi Sake is made; samples were offered after the tour.

 At Fushima-Inari Shrine,  the huge orange torii gate at the entrance was visible from a distance. We entered the Shinto shrine and saw more and more torii gates. As we gradually made our way up the mountain we stopped at various shrines often walking through a walkway of torii gates. Each wooden gate is painted orange with the donor's name and the date incised into the wood and painted black. There are thousands of these gates in about 5 sizes; a chart showed the amount of donation required for each size---from about $2000 to around $20,000. The 4 km path continues up the mountainside and makes a circle. At one point there was a small altar containing two stones; the worshipper prayed and then tried to lift one of the stones. If the stone felt heavier than expected then the prayer was denied; it it felt lighter, then the prayer was granted. We watched as a lady prayed and then lifted each stone. This is another one of those shrines where the worshipper claps twice before praying "in case the god is sleeping."

The approach to  Kiyomizadera Temple (Pure Water Temple) is up a steep and winding pathway because the temple is built on a mountainside. Known as the Higashiyama District, walking along this area was a treat. Some shops sell food; others sell souvenirs; some sell fine pottery and other wares. Once we arrived at the temple compound entrance, we paid admission and got to see the famous Stage of Kiyomizadera which rests on long wooden pillars and a framework assembled without nails as is the main building of the temple. "Jumping of the stage of Kiyomizadera" is a Japanese expression used when making a big decision. We had a good view of the Koyasu Pagoda but did not visit it; a visit there brings a fortunate childbirth. Near the bottom, we saw Otowa, the water pouring from the mountainside in three streams running from bamboo pipes. People drink from the water; one stream brings longevity; a second brings success in school while a third brings a fortunate love life. Drinking from all three is considered greedy.

 

We saw a small shrine with a Buddha made from a tree killed by the Fukishima tsunami; people pray here for the victims of that disaster.

Sanjusangendo Temple is famous for its one thousand statues of Buddha housed in Japan's longest wooden building. The wooden Buddhas are  aligned in multiple rows; various stages of peeling gilt adorned them. In front of the Buddha statues were other statues of important gods and immortals. At the end of the array, a large serene-looking statue of Buddha provided a focus for worship and a priest was chanting in front of it. Behind the array of statues were placards which contained explanations and some depictions of what the building and statues looked like when newly painted/gilded. Almost all the information signs had both Japanese and English. Photography was forbidden inside the temple, so we bought a few post cards. 

 Another ride on the bullet train took us back to Tokyo to catch the flight to Indonesia.

Around the World - Part 3 - Tokyo, Japan

TOKYO – We had visited Tokyo previously and seen most of the “must see” sites for tourists. This time we chose to have a guide for one day and then to have the remaining time to ourselves. One of the places we went was Yanaka Bochi, the cemetery where the last Shogun of the Tokagawa era is buried. We found the cemetery very interesting. By law everyone is cremated and then the ashes are placed in an urn which is buried in a hole in the plot. The plot already contains a stone with the family crest and/or name. There is also another stone on which the names and dates for all family members buried there is engraved. Many are missing metal fences, statues, etc. because they were melted down in World War II. Some graves are Shinto and others are Buddhist.

Leaving the cemetery we passed a Buddhist shrine with chains composed of thousands of origami cranes decorating it. Nearby was a large bronze Buddha from the Edo period. We left the cemetery under an alley of huge cherry trees.

We strolled to the nearby Jyomyoin Temple. The garden of this Buddhist temple contained thousands of tombstone-like markers engraved with donors names and denoting a relative. In the temple itself there was a huge bell rope to use after making an offering and praying.

 At Nezu Museum in the garden the gorgeous purple irises were in bloom. Then we returned to the building to see a special exhibition of Japanese paneled screens; the highlight was a pair of gold screens decorated with purple irises. These 18th century masterpieces are considered national treasures. The museum's second floor contained an exhibit of Chinese bronzes and another on vessels used in the tea ceremony.

At Tasaki where a lady demonstrated how they make cultured pearls. She also explained the locations of their pearl farms---of the coast of Myanmar---and showed the different kinds, colors, sizes and qualities of pearls. Who knew they used ground bits of shell from Mississippi River mussels as the core of their pearls

Our next stop was Roppongi Hills Mori Tower/Observatory where we ascended to the 55th floor for a view of the city called "Tokyo City View;" there was too much haze to see Mt. Fuji .

When we visited Asakusa Temple, the surrounding area had changed a little in the past 10+ years. The three-day-long Sanja Matsuri (festival) officially begins tomorrow and people were erecting food tents as fast as possible. A lot of people, including students in uniform, were pouring into the area; it's estimated that some two million people will visit the area during the three days. We wandered into the shrine area itself; that had not changed except for a price increase on "fortunes." Then we looked at the souvenir shops lining the entrance pathway. We also wandered through the market between the station and the temple looking at the utilitarian items for sale.

.

Hie Shrine was next to our hotel. This ancient Shinto shrine, which has ties to the Imperial family, has been rebuilt several times. Black curtains prevented our entering the shrine itself but we were able to access the grounds. A half dozen or so ladies were chanting to the left of the entrance to the shrine itself.