A Passion for Travel: March 2010

Seabourn “Spirit” Cruise
8 February – 5 March 2010

We cruised aboard the Seabourn Spirit which carries a maximum of 208 passengers. This cruise took us from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Uruguay and along the coast of Brazil. We then sailed up the Amazon River to Manaus, Brazil. We have sailed on over 30 cruises but this was our first time aboard Seabourn. We found the food delicious and the service second-to-none. We enjoyed the small size of the ship and not having assigned seating or times in the dining room. Lectures were offered many days and there was entertainment each night. We hope to sail on this cruise line again.

TEXAS - FLORIDA - ARGENTINA

Monday 8 February - Wednesday 10 FebruaryWe flew American Airlines from DFW to Miami. There we took the shuttle to the Airport Marriott Hotel for the night. We flew LAN Argentina from Miami to Buenos Aires. It departed about 9:00 p.m. on Tuesday and landed in Buenos Aires about 8:00 a.m. on Wednesday. We lost two hours during the flight We made our way into the terminal and through Immigration where we paid the reciprocity fee of $131/person (1011.32 pesos). This was our third trip to Buenos Aires and our first time to have to pay this fee. At Baggage Claim we waited forever for our first bag and then twice that long for the second one. We passed through Customs where every piece of luggage is scanned before it leaves and met our driver. He told us it would take about 40 minutes to arrive at the hotel and he was correct. Upon arrival at the “Four Seasons Hotel,” we were escorted directly to room 804. As it was only 10:00 a.m., we had not anticipated it being ready for occupancy. About 1:00, we got directions from the concierge and walked through Buenos Aires toward the pedestrian area of Florida Street. Crossing the park we met a dog walker with four dogs on leashes; we hoped to see some of the ones walking a dozen or so but never did. We reached the pedestrian area where we window shopped for a while. We successfully fended off the vendors for tango shows; leather shops; etc. Then we walked back to the hotel arriving about 4:00. We had reservations in “Le Mistral” for 7:30.
Thursday 11 February – We decided to leave the hotel and walk a few blocks; we saw several cafes and restaurants and a car dealership. In a park we saw another huge tree like the one we saw yesterday with a trunk some ten to twelve feet in diameter. Then we returned to the room to pack. About 1:35 we called for the bellman and went to the lobby to check out. The car was waiting and the drive to the port only took about fifteen minutes. Our first stop was at the wrong cruise terminal but we soon learned that our ship was in Terminal 6. Our driver found the way to the “Cruise Terminal Annex” as it was called and took our luggage inside. We gave our two large pieces of luggage to the stevedores who put it through a scanner. Then we walked outside and boarded a bus to ride about 30 yards to the ship; it was inane and they said it was for “safety;” most likely it was because of some union rule. Once at the ship, they checked us in using our passports and then we boarded. In the lounge they took our passports; had us sign the cruise ticket; made photographic ID cards. Then we were escorted to suite 128 where we met our stewardess; Mari is from Cape Town, South Africa. Soon our luggage arrived and we unpacked. At 6:00 we went topside for sail-away which was delayed until 6:30; unless it was “manana time,” we don’t know why. We had reservations in “Restaurant 2” at 7:30 for dinner. We sat on the aft deck and enjoyed an excellent meal. It was pleasant sitting outside and watching the sunset as we sailed East down the Rio de la Plata. Swirls of red, pink, and purple adorned the sky which gradually darkened; the water became blue-black like the ink in an old fountain pen. We watched the tall buildings of the city grow shorter and saw more and more settlement along the shore line; as darkness deepened, these changed into a necklace of sparkling and twinkling white, yellow, and red lights separating water from sky. We sailed in the channel marked by red and green buoys for several hours before reaching the Atlantic Ocean. Ships sailing opposite us passed so close that we felt as if we could stretch out our hands and touch them. Once we reached the channel’s end, ships anchored there decorated the blackness with their white lights providing interesting patterns as they defied the darkness of the sky and reflected in the water. After dinner, we walked upon the open deck a few minutes before returning to our suite. We set the clock ahead one hour before going to bed.

URUGUAY

Friday 12 February – We went up on deck 8 to watch us tie up alongside the pier in Montevideo, Uruguay. We were earlier than the scheduled 8:00 a.m. There are 4 ships in port today and the MSC Musica is nearest us; it’s huge. We had breakfast in the Veranda Café and ate on the back deck. Then we returned to the room and gathered our belongings for today’s excursions. Because we had visited the city previously, we decided to venture into the countryside today. We left a few minutes later than the 8:30 departure for Colonia de Sacramento, an historic town on the Rio de la Plata just across from Buenos Aires. The drive is 2 ½ hours each way through farming country. We saw several hundred head of dairy cattle as well as a few beef cattle. Quite a few well-fed horses grazed in green pastures and sheep cropped grass. Fields boasted tall, tasseled corn stalks and shorter ones of alfalfa. Roadside stands offered “papas” and we saw fields of potatoes waiting to be dug. A few tree limbs held red apples and we learned that the peach season has just ended and the apple season was just beginning. We passed through San Jose Province and into Colonia Province with only the “Bienvenidos” sign marking the difference. Part of the Highway 1 was a toll road and we crossed about 18 bridges as we journeyed from Montevideo westerly toward Colonia de Sacramedo. Maria Teresa, our guide, was a native of Colonia and was able to give us a native’s perspective. The province is so named because of various colonies established in the mid-nineteenth century by various Europeans: German; Swiss; Spanish; French; Italian; Swiss. Each community still exists and maintains some of its original character, culture, and language. We made a rest stop at a bus station on the outskirts of the city of some 30,000 people and then drove to a drop off point near the old city where busses and large automobiles are prohibited. The old city of Colonia del Sacramento was founded in 1680 by the Portuguese and fought over for 100 years by them and the Spanish. In the 1990s it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It hugs the banks of a peninsula in the Rio de la Plata across from Buenos Aires, Argentina and there is ferry service between the cities. We saw a couple of old houses, one of which was in the process of restoration, outside the old walls. An arched gray stone gateway across what remained of a moat provided entrance to the old town; it sat in a restored stone wall and was topped by the Portuguese coat of arms. We enjoyed walking the cobblestone streets and seeing the restored colonial houses with their tiled roofs, thick walls, and interior patios. We saw some of the oldest structures and the narrow streets and we wandered across the plaza and toward the river itself. Any and all restoration---both exterior and interior---must have approval from a historical commission. Some exteriors are stucco over the rock and are painted cream, white, dark red, etc. Restored oversized lanterns converted to electricity are attached to many walls and have become a symbol of the old city. Many of the historic structures are museums of various types. Just off the main square, a tall white lighthouse erected in the 19th century uses the brown, rock ruins of an earlier convent for support. Our leisurely walk took us through the town down to a paseo along the river and then back up. It was sunny and hot and we took advantage of any available shade when Maria Teresa stopped to explain. Upon reaching the main area with the Basilica del Santisimo Sacramento about 12:30, we ate lunch at Le Mason de Colonia. Then we retraced our steps to some shops before wandering back to view the inside the cathedral itself. It’s very austere for a Spanish church but contains a huge monstrance and a carving of the Virgin which often went into battle in colonial days. We left the city about 2:30 to head back to Montevideo. Our first route took us along the riverbank and then we rejoined the highway and retraced our morning’s route. It was a few minutes after 5:00 by the time we exited the bus and returned to the ship. We saw the “Uruguay Tango Show” in the lounge at 6:30. We enjoyed the dancers and tolerated Valeria Lima, the tango singer

Colonia de Sacramedo Scenes

Paseo - Buenos Aires is visible across the river.

PUNTA DEL ESTE

Saturday 13 February –At breakfast, we enjoyed sitting on the aft deck and looking across at Punta del Este from our anchorage outside the breakwater. After breakfast we returned to the suite for our things before going to the lounge to await the departure of tender #1 for the pier. We boarded through the marina area of the ship and were soon inside the breakwater and into the marina of the city with mooring for 500+ boats; some of them are large, luxurious yachts. Punta del Este is the “Monaco of South America” and a favorite of the rich and famous. Many Argentineans and Brazilians holiday here and own property here as well as do wealthy Uruguayans; others of their ilk from the rest of the world also feel the attractions. We met our guide Juan Carlos and driver Julio and boarded Bus #1 for our 4-hour tour. We drove from the marina along the coast to a point where we could see water in all four directions; they call it La Esquina de las Mers. There is also a lighthouse here on this high point because it can light both the river and ocean shores. We then drove to the actual point itself and the confluence of the Rio de la Plata and the Atlantic Ocean. We had a photo stop here and walked a little; it was sunny, breezy, and cool; there are rocks and no beach. We then drove along Ramblas Street along the coast seeing the many beaches, many of whom had people enjoying the sun. There were surfers near one. In most areas, there are dunes between the street and the beach and we stopped at one beach to photograph a sculpture. The tips of the fingers and thumb of a huge hand stick out of the sand; it is said to be the right hand of a giant holding up the world and we were told the other hand is in Spain. The Chilean sculptor was inspired by a visit to Easter Island. From there we drove across a creek to an area known as La Barra de Maldonado. The bridges here undulate making a sort of “lazy m.” The designer was neither an engineer nor an architect but an artist inspired by Sophia Loren's bustline. On our return trip, the bus picked up some speed for a “roller coaster effect” as we crossed. We then drove into an area of luxury homes known as Beverly Hills. Each huge mansion occupies its own city block and is surrounded by luxuriant, well-maintained gardens. What a contrast to the high rises and cottages we saw elsewhere. In the midst of this area, we went to Museo Ralli. Founded by two Swiss banking brothers, it held a nice collection of mostly contemporary Latin American art. However, there are many works by Salvador Dali. There were drawings, painting, and sculptures on several floors and in patios. Even though it wasn’t to our taste, it was well-displayed. We left there and drove through an area where the non-affluent people live. The huts appeared to be mostly one-room of concrete blocks and all crammed together; it was a trailer park without trailers. Across the street from this area was a huge camping area where visitors set up tents. It seems strange that the static local population is only 7000 except in the summer when it can reach 500,000 at times. We continued our drive completely across the city and saw more and more beaches until we reached Casapueblo, the home and atelier of artist Carlos Paez Vilaro. It clings to the cliff side and is a rabbit warren of rooms. It looks much more interesting from the outside with its Moorish turrets and domes than it is on the inside. The view from the terrace is spectacular. We spent time here wandering around and looking at art work and ceramics we were not going to purchase. Then we rode back to the pier and walked around the terminal and across a parking lot to the tender pier. We were the last two aboard the tender and had to sit in the very front under the hot sun pouring through the glass; not a pleasant experience. When we got back to the ship, the tender really rammed it and the seas didn’t appear to be that rough. It took a while for the crew to get it into position and then we were the last off. It was hot. We decided to go directly to the “Veranda Café” for lunch as it was after 1:00. After a light and refreshing meal, we returned to the coolness of the cabin to relax. We read, napped, and enjoyed the show through the window. The bright sunshine reflecting off the water provides a glittering surface for maritime activities outside our suite window. Against a backdrop of tall condominium buildings behind a sandy beach, a constant variety presents itself. Flocks of windsurfers like huge white-winged sea birds breeze back and forth following the direction they’re blown. Elegant yachts majestically chug into and out of the marina. Like huge water beetles, jet skis dart and race back and forth at amazing speeds spurting huge streams of water as their daredevil drivers---many without life vests---navigate an unseen but ever-changing course. A few sail boats catch the breeze and easily slip into and out of view. Some boats come near the ship and the people aboard them wave indicating that people on the top deck must also be waving at them. Even a few jet skis with more than one person aboard come near and wave. About 6:00 the clouds begin to roll in and the entire scene darkened but the activity, except for the wind surfing, did not diminish.

Area Where the River Meets the Ocean

Giant's Hand Sculpture

Sophia Loren Inspired Bridge

Casapueblos

Sea Lions in Harbor

SEA DAYS

Sunday 14 February – Valentine’s Day at Sea. We got up after 8:00 and went to breakfast in Veranda; sitting on the deck was pleasant. After breakfast we returned to the suite for at while. At 11:15 I went to Richard Cowley’s lecture, “Behind the Battle of the River Plate.” It told of the naval strategy and the battle involving the sinking of the Graf Sphie just out of Montevideo. We ate lunch on the aft deck and then returned to the cabin until time for “Strawberry Fields’ Tea Time” at 4:00. After tea, we joined Chef Rajat for a galley tour; he stressed food safety. It is amazing how few people prepare all the meals. We returned to the suite and changed before going to Shirley Dominguez’s show at 6:45. She called it “When the Harp Goes Latin” and entertained us well for 45 minutes. At dinner, each lady received a long-stemmed red rose upon entering the dining room. We left at 10:00 to attend “Love Is In The Air,” a Valentine’s Day Show performed by Jan Stearman, cruise director; Steve Wood, assistant cruise director; Speedy Gonzales; Christina Otero; John Christie; Shirley Dominguez; Tango couple, David Palos and Natalia Fossali. The lounge was decorated with red and white balloons and other cut out hearts on the wall. It was light, fun, and musical.

Monday 15 February – We spent the day relaxing at sea. Besides breakfast and lunch on the aft deck, we attended some lectures and stitched, computed, and readAt 4:00 I went up to tea and got some snacks to eat in the room. We attended Richard Cowley’s lecture on the evolution of the Tango at 6:30. We had reservations in “Restaurant 2” at 8:00 as it was steakhouse night; we sat on a windy aft deck and enjoyed a delicious meal.

BRAZIL

The Portuguese colonized Brazil in the 1500s and it remained a colony of Portugal until 1822. Then the son of the King of Portugal rebelled and formed the Empire of Brazil with himself as Emperor. The slaves were freed in 1888 and a republic was formed in 1889. Today Brazil is the largest country in Latin America and the fifth most populated in the world. About 85% of its 180 million people live in the urban areas. There are vast areas of forest in the interior. Currently the economy is strong and the country supplies all its own petroleum needs. Rich in natural resources, many varieties of gemstones are mined and much timber is harvested. While the population is very diverse, a great disparity exists between the rich and the poor. City slums breed crime. Portuguese is the official language and the only one spoken by most of the population.

PARATI

Parati is about 125 miles from Rio de Janeiro and has a population of about 30,000. It's located on the so-called "Green Coast" and is a popular vacation spot for Brazilians who want to head for the beaches. Its claim to fame was as a port at the end of the "Gold Trail" during the early gold-mining years. The gold was loaded on mule caravans at the mines and carried to Parati where it was loaded on ships bound for Portugal. The core of the colonial city has been preserved.
Tuesday 16 February – We got up at 7:30 and went to breakfast on a sunny aft deck of the Veranda Restaurant; we wore sunglasses, hat and visor. After breakfast, we returned to the suite to get our gear for today’s tour, “The Gold Trail by Jeep.” We met in the lounge at 9:45 and left the ship about 10:00 for the thirty minute ride to the pier. We didn’t ride a regular tender but a schooner-type party boat supplied by the tour company. It was a pleasant sail into Parati, a quaint town. There are lots of islands---many of restaurants, houses, or hotels---dotting the bay. Both the islands and the surrounding mountains are tree covered; it sort of looks like the South Pacific. Today is Mardi Gras---Fat Tuesday---and a holiday for many; there are families and young people everywhere and many appear to be headed for the water. Once ashore, we loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles for the tour. It was sunny and hot with a temperature in the mid- 90s. They provided water; we provided sweat. We snaked our way through various streets of town to reach a highway. Then we turned off that onto a very bumpy dirt road as we made our way through part of Serra da Bocaina National Park. We stopped at a refreshment area and walked about 15 minutes to a waterfall in a creek; people were swimming and enjoying themselves. We were hot. Then we reboarded our vehicles and drove to Toboggan Falls where we watched teenagers slide down a large rock as the water sluiced over it; some sat; some lay; a few stood. It was like a natural water slide. We saw a map of the gold trail which was developed to transport gold from the mining region of the interior to the harbor in Parati. Then we made our way across the street to Engenho D’ouro Distillery which makes cachaca, potent liquor distilled from sugar cane. Our last stop was at a nursery where we saw a bromeliad garden. We each received a souvenir bottle of cachaca. We had hoped to see some of the countryside but really spent the time riding through jungle which had tall trees; bamboo; grasses; and huge tropical vines, ivies, and ferns. The fact that it was so hot, made much of the day miserable as we were in the open backs of the vehicles and there was no air stirring if we weren’t moving. Our three-and-a-half-hour-tour ended at 2:15 at the pier. We had thought we would stay in town and eat as dining aboard ship closed at two, but changed our minds because we were so hot. We supposed it was as a part of the tour but didn’t care why our tender to return to the ship was the same schooner on which we rode over this morning; we caught it at 2:30 and were back aboard by 3:05. The ship provided us with cold water and cold towels at the pier. The maitre'd met us on the gangway saying that the Veranda was still open for lunch, so we dumped stuff in the room and went there immediately. After lunch, we returned to the room to do some computing and stayed in the suite until after sailing.

Harbor

Serra da Bocaina National Park

Toboggan Falls

Distillery

Bromeliad Garden

RIO DE JANEIRO

A city of over 7 million people, Rio de Janeiro is the most popular tourist destination in South America. Like any large city, its population includes people of many races, ethnic backgrounds, and religions. It served as Brazil's capital until 1960 and boasts a well-protected harbor and miles of inviting beaches. We chose to miss its most famous event---Carnival which occurs on Mardi Gras each year.
Wednesday 17 February – We got up about 6:15 and were on deck as we sailed into Rio. The sun rose and the light played along the surface of Sugar Loaf Mountain. Magnificent and huge Frigate Birds rode the rising air currents and formed black swirls in the sky. We could see the statue of Christ the Redeemer in the distance. We sailed past Sugar Loaf and made a left turn into the harbor. We enjoyed breakfast on the aft deck while enjoying the beautiful view. We were docked at the terminal by 8:00 and were the only ship in port. We were the third and fourth passengers to disembark. We made our way into the terminal and met Celso Rubinstein, our guide. Luciano arrived with the car and we were off. It’s Ash Wednesday and an official holiday in Rio de Janeiro until noon. We drove through the city with Celso pointing out various points of interest as we made our way to visit the Christ the Redeemer statue atop Corcovado Mountain. He secured our tickets for the 9:20 ride on the cog railway that took us almost to the base of the statue. After leaving the train, we took an elevator to a higher level. We learned that the elevator and the escalator were installed for the visit of Pope John Paul II; if they had not been, the only access would have been to climb the 1000 steps that are still used by the sinners. They’re talking of increasing the capacity of the cog railway to handle crowds when Rio hosts the World Cup and the Olympics. He pointed out some points of interest in the landscape below than then left us; we rode an escalator to the base of the 123 meter tall statue itself; it’s carved from stone and depicts Christ as a man with his arms outstretched to receive everyone. Inside the base is a small chapel devoted to prayer. After making some photos of the statue and views from the top, we rode the escalator back to the restaurant level to meet Celso and then made our descent. After leaving there we drove along the beaches and stopped at a “mirador” overlooking Ipanema Beach where the four of us enjoyed drinking the water from fresh coconuts while sitting under an umbrella. Then we drove farther along the coast seeing Copacabana Beach. There were some huge sand castles left over from Carnival; the beaches are crowded today and it seems as if everyone in Rio owns a skimpy swimsuit. It is Ash Wednesday and a holiday in the city but we did not see anyone with ashes marking them; considering the brevity of the swimwear, it seems unlikely one could cover the essentials as well as the ashes. We then drove to the Copacabana Palace Hotel and went inside to enjoy the beauty of its original 1920’s art deco décor. Leaving there we headed to a fort that was closed today because of Carnival so we drove to the other end of Copacabana Beach known as the Leme area where we got out and walked to get a perspective. The walkway along the cliff’s edge gave a good view of the Christ the Redeemer statue, the hundreds of people on the beach, and the people enjoying the surf. Some people were fishing from the walkway. The beaches are extremely colorful because of the red, yellow, green, and blue umbrellas that bloom in the bright sun. We were back aboard by 2:30. We really enjoyed our time in the city. We were extra cautious because we know it’s dangerous but have learned that it’s important to know where we are and who we are with in order to feel safe. We ordered a couple of cheese trays from room service and that was our lunch in the suite. As we ate, Janet looked out the window and noticed that fish about two feet long would often jump from the water. We saw several perform this acrobatic maneuver. Looking straight down, we saw what appeared to be large catfish swimming beside the ship. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the suite. Dinner tonight was a special Sky Grill Dinner on open deck 8 featuring a salad bar; surf and turf; apple tart with vanilla ice cream. We enjoyed the breezy deck and informal atmosphere. The evening’s entertainment was “Barsilisima,” a local Samba Show. It consisted of drummers and a leader along with dancers. Young women dancers in skimpy costumes gyrated rhythmically to drum beats. Drummers had a contest; two men did a “war” dance using sticks that looked almost Maori. Then some men performed a martial arts type acrobatic dance called capoeira that will be a part of the 2016 Olympics; we were amazed at their tumbles, leaps, and twists on the wooden deck. Next came two women in elaborate costumes and then the skimpily clad girls returned; each of them performed solo. Costumed figures representing a queen and a master of ceremonies appeared and were followed by a woman wearing a costume used in yesterday’s Carnival. Then they formed a conga line and other round dance type activities using members of the audience including us. It was a hot, hot time and not only temperature wise. The beat of the drums; the gyrations of the dancers; the glitter of the lights on the sequined costumes; the brilliant smiles all combined to make an exciting time. The show lasted about 45 minutes and the action never stopped; each of the dancers was all muscle with no fat and appeared to have been able to go on for much, much longer.

Rio Sunrise

Christ the Redeemer Statue atop Corcovado

Sugar Loaf

Christ the Redeemer Statue atop Corcovado

Views from Christ the Redeemer Statue

Sugar Loaf from Christ the Redeemer Statue

Ipanema Beach

Copacabana Beach

Thursday 18 February – It rained, not heavy but an intermittent drizzle fell all day. We left the ship before nine, met Celso and Luciano, and were on our way for our second day of touring Rio. We saw the white, stone arches of the ancient aqueduct built to bring water to the Santa Teresa area; a single tram line now runs atop it; in some places it is two and three arches high. Our street passed through one of its huge arches as we made our way in the Lapa District of the city. Our first stop was the Metropolitan Cathedral, a four-sided modern pyramid. Dark and almost all concrete on the exterior, it dominates its space. The interior is dark with light only entering through the huge doorways, the stained glass windows, or the very top. Three sides have doors and the fourth holds the altar. Each side contains a long vertical stained glass mosaic in abstract form that reaches from the tops of the doorways or the altar to the roof which is flat with white glass panels forming a star. An oversized and massive crucifix hangs above the chancel but it almost seems superfluous and lost in the vastness. Behind the altar is a small chapel open for personal devotions. Instead of the theater-in-the-round, it’s a theater-in-three-quarter and holds about 4000 worshipers. Above the two side doorways are small choir lofts/ledges reached by spiral staircases. Even though it’s a huge structure, it has the feel of a house of worship. Nearby stands the headquarters of PetroBras, Brazil’s petroleum company, a multi-storey building composed of cubes of steel. We drove to the Opera House which we couldn’t enter. It’s a classical style building with ornately carved stone columns and green domes accented with gold; restoration is in progress. Opera is important here and this structure is said to rival “La Scala.” Many buildings downtown are government owned and in only partial use since the capital moved to Brasilia; some are huge and occupy an entire city block. We saw the imposing classical building that once served as the House of Deputies. Our drive took us by the first home of the Portuguese royal family; a street now runs between their house and that of their servants. Many structures in the area preserve the old, Portuguese-colonial architecture. A stroll through the old market area showed buildings which once had stores on the ground floor and family apartments on the floors above; Carmen Miranda grew up here. Now it’s an area of bars and cafes. Entering a small church, we saw an over-the-top ornate interior in the baroque and rococo style. It was one of the few churches the slaves were allowed to attend. We stopped at Granado Pharcacias founded in 1870; they make soaps, perfumes, lotions, etc. It was an interesting stop. Next we went to Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, a former bank building now converted to a performing arts center; it, too, occupies an entire city block and contains an ornate interior. Of course, one corner was reserved for banking. Continuing our splashing through the cobbled and paved streets, we crossed to Candalaria Church, the only Spanish-style and built church in Rio. It took 40 years to construct and was a gift from a Spaniard saved from a shipwreck and named in honor of his mother. We enjoyed the interior and found some people inside in prayer. Luciano was waiting when we exited the church and we drove to the San Francisco Monastery. This was an adventure as it is located on a very high point in the city. We entered through the parking lot by taking a pedestrian tunnel which ended at an elevator door. Upon exiting the elevator, we went into the Church of San Antonio which had blue and white tiles applied to the walls like wainscoting. From there we went next door and entered the Treasury where we saw several life-size statues of saints and the pedestals on which they sit when they are used in processions. Then we entered a fantastic chapel which was gold from top to bottom; ornately carved wooden walls overlaid with gold made it feel strange especially considering that the Franciscans take a vow of poverty. We were probably not sufficiently awed as it lacked a worshipful atmosphere. Next door was another room displaying some reliquaries, books, and vestments. Before leaving, we looked into a long room used only for confessions. Restoration is in progress here and we were escorted out by a young man who led us down several long flights of steps to the gate at the bottom of the hill. This was a fairly treacherous trip considering the rain, the wet steps, the leaves, and umbrellas. We crossed a couple of streets and walked a pedestrian area for a couple of blocks to reach Confeitaria Colombo established in 1870. It’s a tea room in the Viennese style. The counter area contains huge mirrored back bars with glass fronts and the walls of the dining area are lined with huge mirrors. All are ten to twelve feet high and four to six feet wide and are framed with ornately carved dark mahogany. There is even an upper floor visible through an oval in the dining room. We sat with Celso and enjoyed a snack. After this refreshing pause---about 11:30---we returned to the car and drove to Sugar Loaf. As we approached this area of the city, we couldn’t see the top of the mountain because it was shrouded in clouds. We climbed the steps to the ticket area where Celso bought tickets for us. We boarded the cable car and rode to the intermediate stop at Urca Loaf where we looked down and got some nice views of the city. We got a clear view of the military area containing headquarters for the army, navy, and air force; it’s sort of a triangle and was off-limits during the dictatorship of the 1980s. Two of the old cable cars are on display and one is an original which was operated by a man riding atop it. We saw our first monkeys here; they scampered in trees and searched for food. We boarded another cable car for the ride to Sugar Loaf itself. The views from here were much better than anticipated. The clouds which obscured it from below were very thin wisps. While there was no sun, we could still see everything. It was just a view in muted rather than dazzling colors. The statue of Christ the Redeemer stood in dark blue-black against the ashy-colored clouds. There were more monkeys here probably because there is a café and people feed them; "Do Not Feed the Animals" signs in three languages were completely ignored. A drive through the Urca District with its houses protected from destruction and exterior renovation ended on the beach, and we were back at the ship terminal at 2:30.

Metropolitan Cathedral

Candalaria Church

Church of San Antonio

Monkey on Sugar Loaf

Views from Sugar Loaf on a Cloudy Day

Christ the Redeemer as seen from Sugar Loaf

Sugar Loaf Cable Car

SEA DAYS

Friday 19 February –Tonight there was a Deck BBQ. We had a great table on deck 8 and enjoyed the excellent food. Service was second-to-none. They cleared the food, except for the dessert tables, at 9:00 and the “Rock the Boat” show began. Oasis provided the music with Christina, Speedy, Steve, and Jan as the performers. It was non-stop music from the 50s to the 80s for an hour and a half. We danced on deck. We thought it a wonderful time and enjoyed listening, watching, and dancing. As we were on the top deck, it was somewhat breezier than the lower one, and we had just enough room for a few slow dances. The dark black sky held a crescent moon and bright stars. It couldn’t have been better.
Saturday 20 February –Richard Cowley lectured about the Portuguese King Joao who evacuated to Brazil when faced with Napoleon’s threat. At 4:00, we attended Chocoholic Tea Time. Time was spent computing, stitching, and reading. We set the clock back one hour before going to bed.

SALVADOR DE BAHIA

The bay known as Bahia Todos de los Santos, is the second largest in the world. With some 3 million people, Salvador de Bahia is the third most populous city in Brazil. It was the first colonial capital. An escarpment divides the harbor area from the rest of the city and the divisions are known as the Lower City and the Upper City. Because this was an area of many plantations using slave labor, African culture is very strong here.
Sunday 21 February – We sailed into Bahia Todos de los Santos about 6:30. I went up on top for a little while as we were sailing in toward the pier. We ate breakfast on the deck while we were in the process of docking in Salvador de Bahia. We gathered out things and met our tour, “Historia Salvador and Mercado Modelo,” on the pier about 8:25. It was hot. Our guide was extremely long-winded and went into detail about everything. This port is one of the centers of African culture in Brazil because the Portuguese imported about four million African slaves to work the sugar cane and other plantations. Brazil claims to have more people of African descent than any other country except Nigeria. Our first stop was the Praca Municipal or Municipal Square, former site of a pillory where slaves were whipped, where we saw the top of Lacerdo’s Elevator connecting the Upper and Lower Cities as well as Palacio do Rio Branco, the home of the Portuguese governor. Then we walked up to Terreiro de Jesus Square where we entered the Cathedral Basilica completed in 1672. As mass was in progress, we could only peep inside; the interior is undergoing restoration. We then walked a few blocks down a hill and then back up while the guide explained Carnival in Salvador and Trio, a special parade featuring amplified bands on the backs of trucks. Once back on top of the hill and again in Terreiro de Jesus Square, we entered the Igreja Sao Francisco where he again discoursed; it was stifling hot. The interior of this church is filled with intricately carved details and covered wall-to-wall with gold; they claim it took a ton of gold to gild it. It does have some white stucco to relieve the monotony and make the gold stand out. The carved and painted ceiling was created in pieces on the floor like a jigsaw puzzle and then raised into place where it holds itself into place. Blue and white Portuguese tiles form a wainscoting in the entrance area. Next door is Ireja da Ordem Terceira de Sao Francisco, a smaller and older church which boasts a Spanish baroque façade of saints, angels, and virgins. The façade was hidden under a layer of stucco for 150 years until accidentally discovered in the 1930s. We had about 30 minutes of free time here. It rained but we had an umbrella which we had been using as a parasol. We then wandered downhill and took an elevator down to a parking lot where the bus waited. Our drive through the city took us past a lake where we saw the “Orixas Sculptures” of the African gods; they are huge women. This almost slum area of the city has somewhat of a “Eureka Springs” look as the shanties cling to the mountainsides; we saw windows in the colorful dwellings but doorways were on the opposite side. We visited "\Nossa Senhor do Bonfim church, the center of Catholic-African religion called Candomble. The fence and gate in front of the church are decorated with colorful ribbons as symbols of good luck. The sanctuary was packed with worshippers. There is a Sala dos Milagres (chapel) on one side where people have left symbols of body parts and offerings in response to healing and prayers. Upon returning to the bus, we drove to “Mercado Modelo,” a handicraft market near the pier. Here we had about 20 minutes to shop. We reboarded the ship and put our things into the suite before heading for lunch on the back deck.. At 3:30 “Bahia Axe Bahia,” a local musical and dance troupe performed on deck 7: drums; a singer; dancers in costume. It was colorful and loud and showcased the African influence prevalent in the area. As soon as the troupe departed, all preparations for sailing were underway as that was scheduled for 5:00. As we sailed, we saw quite a bit of the modern city that we didn’t see on tour. Skyscrapers clustered along the coast, especially where it came to a point, and then continued for several miles. The size of the city amazed us and we watched the lights on shore for quite a long time.

Palacio do Rio Branco

Lacerdo's Elevator

Terreiro de Jesus Square

Cathedral Basilica

Ireja Sao Francisco

Ireja da Ordem Terceira de Sao Francisco

Orixas Sculptures (African Gods)

Nossa Senhor do Bonfim Church

Fence in front of Nossa Senhor do Bonfim Church

SEA DAY

Monday 22 February – We enjoyed a leisurely day at sea. We attended the chef's cooking demonstration, Richard Cowley's lecture, and computed, stitched, and read.

NATAL

Natal means Christmas in Portuguese. This city of almost one million is the closest one in South America to Europe and Africa. It is 1760 miles from Natal to Rio de Janeiro and the same distance to Africa. Natal has been called the safest city in Brazil.
Tuesday 23 February – We were sailing toward Natal when we first looked out the window. The city of about one million people stretches along the coast and we saw lots of high-rise buildings. After breakfast on the rear deck, we went to the bow to watch. We sailed under a modern string bridge and up the Rio Potegni to dock. This appears to be a commercial port, and we did not see a cruise terminal. About 8:20 we boarded a tour bus for our “Natal Dune Buggy” tour; our local guide was Edouardo. Our quarter-hour drive took us across the bridge we had sailed under and to Santa Rita Beach where we met our driver and got into our dune buggy. They were much more modern than expected and there were many of them; each held a driver and 3 passengers but most couples had a driver and buggy to themselves. There are about four thousand acres of dunes here and our tour into the Dunas Jenipabu. We whizzed up, down, and around as we traversed paths and roadways through the park. Some dunes tower and have tops covered with vegetation; others appear more windswept. We drove aboard a balsa or raft and were poled across a shallow river by a raftsman holding a long pole; some held one buggy and others held two. We made photos of Lagoon Pitangui and stopped along the its shores for a drink of fruit juice and condensed milk served in a cored pineapple. We drove along Pitangui Beach and enjoyed watching the breakers roll in. Our ride also took us through some small towns where we saw people’s daily life. Houses here have tiled roofs and are constructed of concrete blocks; we saw no evidence of utilities unless there was a water tank on the roof. Some areas held a few pousadas or inns and in other areas we saw what appeared to be empty new homes which were for sale. We met our tour bus again about 11:30 and thanked our driver. We drove a different route back to the ship and arrived about 12:20. We reboarded the ship, went to the suite, and showered. We were hot and gritty but fully satisfied by the wonderful tour. After dressing, we went to the Veranda for lunch and were eating when we sailed at 1:30. We saw little or nothing of the city itself except for the vistas along the shore from the ship.

FORTALEZA

Fortaleza was named for a fort built by the Dutch in the 1600s. Today it is Brazil's fifth largest city with a population of about 2.5 million.
Wednesday 24 February – We ate breakfast inside in Veranda because of the sun and then we sailed the morning away. We sailed into Fortaleza and were docked by 11:00. After lunch on the rear deck, we gathered our stuff and went ashore for the “Fortaleza City Sights” tour at 1:00. We’re very close to the equator here so there are no seasons and the temperature varies between 21 and 33 degrees year round. Today was a 33 degree one; the area is sometimes known as the “Costa del Sol” of Brazil. Margaretha, our extremely loquacious guide was a native of Lisbon who moved here a few years ago. Our ears hurt from listening; she had an entire guidebook memorized with facts and figures. She wasn’t very good at pointing out sights and we seldom know what was on either side of the bus. We stopped near the Ponte Metallica; in reality a pier built in the early 1900s. We walked out on it to get a perspective of the city. Our second stop was Mercardo Central where we had 45 minutes to browse five floors of handicrafts and textiles. It was hot and we paid 5 reals for 2 Nestles fudge-sickles. We then reboarded the bus and drove a block to the Metropolitan Cathedral finished about 40 years ago and blessed by Pope John Paul II. We drove around the entire block and were amazed at the drab stone exterior which looks like poured concrete; it holds 5000 worshipers. The highlight of the church is the magnificent stained glass from France. The windows in the aisles, over the doors, in the clearstory, and in the apses and the chancel were some of the best we’ve ever seen. The brilliant sunshine showed them to their best advantage. From there we drove to the Jose de Alencar Theater where we admired the ornate exterior cast iron work brought from Scotland; the interior ceiling was painted by an artist with no right hand who strapped a brush to his wrist. Wooden seats had cane backs and bottoms. A Fado dance show in the garden featured 3 musicians and 2 couples dancing; it wasn’t much. We then returned to the ship driving through the Aldeota neighborhood and along the palm-tree-lined beach. Local fishermen, who use rafts instead of boats, anchor them nearby. Almost everywhere we looked there were markets. People had set one up outside the theater and there was another along the beach. This was in addition to the stores which lined streets and people seemed to be shopping at almost all the venues. Fortaleza is a dirty city with litter and trash very evident; the people also seem to live hand-to-mouth. While Margaretha often pointed out that Fortaleza was a safe city and indicated the numbers of police present in various places to prove this, the man giving out maps aboard ship cautioned passengers that many areas were dangerous. The “Raca Brasil,” a local show had already begun when we arrived back on board about 4:35. We put things in the suite and went up for a while but soon returned to the suite. More colorful than some of the others because of the costumes, it still revolved around the drumbeat. We saw a few sailboats but no windsurfers as we sailed out of the harbor about 6:00. We could see high-rise buildings along the coast for miles as we sailed north and the lights indicating an urban area went on for several miles after that. At one point, we saw lights indicating land was on each side of the ship.

Ponte Metallica

Stained Glass from France in the Metropolitan Cathedral

SEA DAYS

Thursday 25 February - Friday 26 February – We spent two sea days relaxing and enjoying activities. Thursday morning we saw the complete arc of a rainbow with all colors visible in front of the ship and marveled at the sight; it seemed to disappear as we approached to sail right beneath it. We attended lectures by Richard Cowley. One was on Amazon personalities and the other on the history of rubber in Brazil. We spent time in the Horizon Lounge watching the passing scenery and stitching and reading. At noon on Friday the captain announced that we were entering the mouth of the Rio Para. It’s about 30 miles wide and the only way we know we’re not still in the ocean is that the water is somewhat muddier in color. Since the ship converts salt water to fresh water, we’re asked to conserve for the remainder of the voyage. We’ll pass Belem and then pick up a pilot about 6:30 tonight as we begin to sail toward the Amazon itself. After dinner Friday night we walked to the front of the ship to watch for lights along the southern shore of the river; there were none on the north. It felt warm because we’re very near the equator. Even though it was dark, we could still see the muddy water. There were some whitecaps on the waves but the brown water, the color of liquid mud, rippled.

THE AMAZON RIVER

This was the reason for booking this cruise. We wanted the opportunity to sail a portion of the world's second longest river. From its source in Peru to its mouth on the Atlantic Ocean, it stretches more than 3900 miles. In terms of volume of water flow, the Amazon is the world's largest; about 20% of the fresh water entering oceans from rivers flows from the Amazon. It is the world's widest river ranging from 4 to 10 miles wide; during the rainy season it's even wider. At present, no bridge spans the Amazon River between Iquitos, Peru and the Atlantic Ocean.
Saturday 27 February – We set the alarm for six and got up when it sounded. We wanted to be on deck as we entered the Breves Narrows. There were not many about and we were on deck 8 for quite a while enjoying the experience. Here the river is more narrow although the water is still liquid mud in color as it carries silt from the Andes to the Atlantic. Debris including green clumps of water hyacinth float along, too. Several types of smaller boats appeared at various intervals and in various and ever-changing numbers. Some were more like river steamers with one or two covered decks that ferried passengers up and down the waterway. Others were flat bottomed row boats carrying locals who wanted handouts from the ships; they rode very low in the water and we often saw their passengers bailing. Many carried children perhaps in hopes they’d be more appealing and receive better “gifts.” These boats were propelled by oars with rounded blades like the ends of ping-pong paddles but a few used a two-bladed oar. There were some motorboats, too, and most of them were of the long-tailed variety. Huts of various descriptions, each with a dock of some type, often appeared riverside. They reminded us of fishing camps and several looked like shotgun houses; some even had metal roofs; those with paint used vivid colors: orange; yellow; blue; green. Occasionally, one appeared to be much newer, larger, and nicer than the others. Occasionally a few were clustered together in a group of a about six and often one of them was a commercial establishment of some sort. We saw no evidence of any electrical lines but some must have had generators because we saw antennas and satellite dishes. Before 7:30, we reached the town of Breves itself and noted its size, streets, commercial and religious buildings. We also saw a terminal here with people seeking passage. Our ship sounded its horn. We ate breakfast on the rear deck and then returned to the Horizon Lounge for more river viewing about 8:15. There are many forks in the waterway as tributaries abound and we’re fortunate the pilot knows the channel. Sawmills appear to be the industry. These are crude mills with one large circular saw blade and logs from the forest are tied together in rafts and floated to them. The sawn lumber is stacked in open cubes with spaces between to air dry and is designed to be laminated together to form engineered lumber. Some of the churches appear to be Catholic but others are definitely Assembly of God as the pentecostal denominations have made huge inroads here. About 10:00 we reached an area where we had to negotiate some narrow turns; as they were blind, the ship’s horn sounded as we entered each. They were either a dog leg or a double hairpin; it was difficult to tell but we changed direction several times. Here there were buildings on all sides. One business was a brickworks which used some of the refuse from the sawmills to fire its bricks. Some sawdust is often used as landfill material. John Harwood, the onboard botanist, did a brief commentary. He did show us one rubber tree growing in the edge of the river. We continued snaking our way upriver enjoying the view and the smooth water. We saw our first barge; a roll-on-roll-off filled with tractors and trailers and pushed by a tug. We ate lunch on the Veranda deck but it was very hot; the wind changed and we should have eaten inside. We then returned to the suite only to find the bathroom flooded, so we returned to the Horizon Lounge while that was repaired. We noticed that the structures along this stretch of river are more primitive and the roofs, which had changed to palm thatch after Breves, were now more just palm leaves. The height of the docks in front o the houses and their distance from shore indicated that the river can be some 8 to 10 feet higher than present. In another place we encountered three of the river steamers; one was chugging along upstream and very close to shore; two more sailing downstream were making much better time. Three horns sounded; both of those heading downstream and ours. We watched for a while longer and then went to the cabin about 2:30. We had reached a much wider part of the river and the various structures and activities ashore were not as easy to see. We sailed along and enjoyed the “picture window” view from our suite as the passing scenery is framed beautifully. Since we’re on deck four and much closer to water level, the perspective makes things look different.

Amazon Sunrise

Breves

Hairpin Curve

There is no engine in the large boat; the small boat tied to the far side provides the power.

Rubber Tree

SANTAREM

Sunday 28 February – We went to breakfast and enjoyed it on the rear deck. The map of our course posted today shows the ship off the edge, so it must be possible to sail off the edge of the world. Who knew the “Flat Earth Society” was right? We staked out a spot in the Horizon Lounge and either sat there or stood outside on the deck until we were tied up at the dock in Santerem, Brazil shortly before ten o’clock. This is a commercial port strategically situated at he confluence of these rivers. The morning’s scenery provided us with a wide muddy river bordered by a green line of vegetation. There was little traffic and nothing exciting. Much of the area is very flat and we were able to see some of Santeram’s buildings from a great distance. Just as we sailed into the city, we saw the “Meeting of the Waters” where the muddy waters of the Amazon meet the clearer waters of the Rio Tapajos; they run along side-by-side for quite a distance without mixing. It rained just after 11:00 and we ate lunch inside the Veranda Café at 11:30. Then we returned to the suite and got ready for our “Maica-Portrait of the Amazon” tour at 1:00. We left the ship and walked the pier making a U to board our boat for the tour. It was a typical one-deck riverboat; there were 26 guests; one guide; 3 crewmen. We spent the next 3 ½ hours sailing the waters of the Amazon around Santarem. This is a web of waterways that twist and turn around islands that are often underwater during the rainy season. Some of the islands we saw were only huge clumps of water hyacinth. We saw several small farms with pigs, chickens, goats, horses, cattle, and water buffalo. We noticed the water marks on the tree trunks and learned that these families have two farms and retreat to one on higher ground during rainy season. They have about one to two weeks more before they have to move; at one point a boat much like ours chugged past with a load of cattle instead of tourists. Most of the cattle appear to be of brahma stock and appear very gentle. One farm, where we tied up to fish, even milks them. We stopped a couple of times to fish for piranha and fortunately one of the crew caught one for us to see. Houses and all farm outbuildings have an air of impermanence. Of course, they are abandoned during the rainy season but many barely meet the requirements of four walls, a roof, and a floor and construction materials appear to be whatever is available free or cheap. The horses are pony sized and very frisky; we watched three colts play for a long time. In addition to the farms, we saw many egrets, herons, and other birds. The lush vegetation provides a home for many creatures; we saw a sloth high in one tree. We arrived back at the dock in Santerem about 4:30. A hammock boat was also docked there; people book passage that involves travel over several days and sling a hammock on deck in which to sleep and spend their time. Luggage goes on the deck underneath the hammock. There are dozens of them hanging there. Our guide told us that distance is measured in the length of time it takes to get there via river; Manaus is 3 days from Santerem. Many of the crew were out to greet us with canapés and drinks. When we sailed at 6:00, we went back out the way we entered and turned left at the confluence so we continued sailing on the muddy waters. We had reservations for Sky Grill at 7:30, and we enjoyed the grilled shrimp and steak while sitting on the open deck. The lights of Santerem lined the distant horizon. At first the moon shone but later went behind a cloud. After dinner we went into the Horizon for a little and then out onto the deck. We went down to deck 7 and were on the open deck outside the bridge. Other than moonlight, it was really dark so navigation must be by GPS. The bridge itself was dark with only the lights from the various panels and screens visible. We set the clock back one hour and went to bed.

Santarem

Brazilian Navy Ship in Santarem

River Boat in Santarem

Meeting of the Waters

Cattle Boat

Crewman with Piranha

Monday 1 March – We awoke rather early and spent some time reading and computing in the suite before going to breakfast at 8:00. Although the river is still very wide, there are islands and some channels appear narrow, so there was quite a bit of green outside our window. After enjoying being outside for breakfast, we went to the Horizon Lounge for a while to read, stitch, photograph, and enjoy the view. Yesterday’s map had been replaced by 3 smaller ones showing the route and ETAs of various places as we make out way toward Manaus. It was easier to determine that we were in somewhat of a network of waterways formed by the millions of gallons of water flowing toward the Atlantic; island, both large and small, denote any spot that might be above the current water level. We passed Parintins, a fairly large town, and several of the houses along the riverbank seemed much more upscale. These had permanent roofs and walls and several boasted bright turquoise exteriors. We saw a few riverboats making their way either upstream or downstream. At one point, the Deutschland, another cruise ship, passed on its way downstream and both ships exchanged greetings via horns. Between 10:30 and 11:00 we sailed through a tropical shower which instantly cooled the temperature while it raised the humidity. At noon, we ate lunch on Veranda’s rear deck. The scenery changed and we saw some red cliffs at least thirty feet high; it appeared that the exterior had crumbled into the river as the water eroded the base and exposed an iron-ore-looking formation. This was the highest ground we saw since entering the river. Along the other side of the river we began to see more small huts and houses, many on stilts. These are really shacks and the people seem to live off the river and from raising cattle; perhaps they’re tenants for the rancher. In a place or two we saw five or six buildings clustered together. None of them, including the church, was a large as a three-story-riverboat moored nearby. Once again we had locals paddling out to beg for something to be thrown to them from the ship. After returning to the suite, we saw several barges; one tug pushed two long barges crammed with trailers; trucks; cars. Another barge even had some boats on it. The riverbank area had a green, grassy strip and then trees behind it; it almost looked like a manicured lawn backed by the gardens of an estate. Buildings were somewhat ramshackle. Debris, most of it limbs, branches, or other forest product floated downstream in greater density than yesterday. We sailed along watching the passing scenery and amazed at the width of the river. We went to “Restaurant 2” for an excellent meal. This one was the best of the trip. We enjoyed sitting on deck under the full moon. About 8:00 we passed the town of Itacoatiara which had quite a few street lights and some automobiles. It also appeared to have a fairly large dock. After leaving the restaurant, we decided to walk out onto the front of the ship on deck 7 and just enjoy sailing into blackness.

ANAVILHANAS ARCHIPELAGO

Tuesday 2 March – We got up about 6:45, dressed, and went on deck. We had already sailed between the pilings for the new bridge across the river before we were topside. We also passed Manaus to anchor in the Rio Negro in the Anavilhanas Archipelago, the largest in the world. There are over 400 islands here and many are underwater during the rainy season; most of those not underwater are too soggy to walk on. After breakfast, we returned to the suite to slather on the sunscreen and insect repellant for our “Exploring the Jungle by Native Canoe” tour which left at 9:00. We were on boat #1 which was not a canoe. It had slat seats with backs and a roof. The driver sat in the back to operate the outboard motor or to use a paddle; he was a natve Indian. There were 8 guests sitting two to a seat, a tour escort from the ship, and Marco, an English-speaking guide, in addition to the driver. We sailed across the waters of the River to explore smaller creeks and flooded forests. It was more of a flora tour than a fauna one; think botany. Marco pointed out the water marks on the trees indicating the height of last year’s flood waters and also said this had been a drought year for them. Still, he expects a lot more water as they’re only about half way through the season; normal water level fluctuation is 45 feet. At one point we saw a tree hung with the nests of weaver birds/mockingbirds; nearby was a huge wasp nest that served as a symbiotic protection from predators. The small yellow and green birds darted around. We sailed around the flooded area for about 45 minutes before putting ashore at some higher ground; just as we left the boat a brilliantly bright blue butterfly about the size of both my hands fluttered by. We then trekked through the jungle with Francisco, another local Indian, as leader; he is about five feet tall and compact muscle armed with a machete. Luckily they gave each of us a stick to use as some of the terrain was soggy, slippery, and steep. We saw various seeds in stages of germination. We also saw a tree, commonly called the cow tree, producing edible white sap. Rodent trails crossed ours and we viewed termite mounds and the nest of huge army ants before arriving at a camp where water and juice were available. The walk took about 45 minutes and was a very hot time in the jungle with little or no air stirring. We reboarded the boat near a waterfall formed by a spring-fed stream cascading over a limestone shelf. The cold water was amber colored. We chugged down this even smaller creek as we began the 30 minute ride back to the ship. At noon we went to lunch in the Veranda and enjoyed the view from the rear deck. Then we returned to the suite where we sorted and packed. We needed to get everything ready because dinner tonight is the “Anavilhanas Jungle Beach Experience” where we enjoy a beach barbeque. We watched from the suite, on deck, and in the Horizon as preparations were made ashore. Tenders ferried supplies and crew back and forth; it rained and soaked everything, so they had to redo it. Passenger service began about 6:30 and we were on the third tender. The shoreline was lit by torches and candles as the generator wasn’t working. Locals greeted us and a small girl put necklaces around our necks; small bows and arrows were the table favors. We were led to a table for six centered by a stunning tropical arrangement of bird of paradise, leaves, and red ginger. The lights flickered on and off several times during which we were led to the buffet and our plates served; by the time the lights finally came on to stay, we had finished eating. We sat around for a while and then took a tender back to the ship and got ready to disembark tomorrow morning.

Tour Boat

Francisco, Native Guide

Ant Mound

MANAUS

Located at the confluence of the Rio Negro and Amazon River. Here you can see the "Meeting of the Waters" where the muddy Rio Negro enters the less-muddy Amazon. Manaus has a population of around two million people. It is known as the "Heart of the Amazon" and is the capital of the state of Amazonas. Its heyday was in the late 19th and early 20th centuries during the rubber boom when fortunes were made from the rubber trees growing wild in the rain forest.

Wednesday 3 February – When we woke up, we were sailing from our anchorage in the Anavilhanas Archipelago toward the harbor in Manaus. The bridge under construction will soon span the river and connect the north and south banks. We disembarked and waited on the pier for the “Manaus Transfer Tour” to begin. There were 13 of us and Marco, the guy from yesterday, was our guide for the three-hour-tour of the city. We could see the floating pier as we pulled away from the dock and marveled at the ingenuity of using this type of construction in an area where the water level fluctuates so greatly. We rode toward the city center seeing a population out and moving. Stores, many of the one garage door width type with no exterior door appeared stocked and busy. Some areas were market stalls under roof; others were stalls set up in open areas. Kiosks lined many streets. It appeared that commerce was alive and well. Marco pointed out various facts about the city including its architecture, history, and topography along the way. We arrived near the Manaus Opera House and left the bus. We walked down the side of the huge building marveling at the magnificence of the structure erected in the 1890s on the upper reaches of the Amazon River. It has marble and all the elegant touches of a Neo-classical European masterpiece. The dome, tiled in Brazilian national colors, makes it purely Brazilian. We walked around it a little and also saw the exterior of the Sao Sebastin Church before entering the Opera House itself. The three years required to decorate the interior were well-spent. Hearing a portion of the practice session of the philharmonic orchestra was a highlight of the tour. The acoustics are marvelous. We first went into a box on the main level and admired the ornate interior décor with its French-made wrought iron balustrades before climbing to an upper floor to one of the top boxes from which we got a great view of the ceiling decorated with a design reminiscent of the four legs of the Eiffel Tower and surrounded by paintings of art, music, tragedy, and a Bolivian music hero. A huge chandelier ornaments the ceiling’s center. Then we put felt slippers over our shoes and went into the ballroom which has a parquet floor, amazing wall paintings on canvas, and a mind-boggling ceiling painting. All the décor was completed elsewhere and then moved into place. The exterior balcony of this room is on the building’s front and has an ornate plaster ceiling. We reboarded the bus and continued touring the city seeing some examples of colonial architecture as well as modern ones. We saw bridges designed by the Eiffel brothers and drove to the city’s highest point to see a huge brick water storage facility they also designed. It provided water for the city using gravity. Marco showed us the Rio Negro and spoke about the new bridge which he fears will upset the ecology of the river. He also showed us many areas of the city with all types of housing and spoke of the government’s efforts to provide better housing for people by either offering them a new condo in a housing project or $40,000 to buy a house. He also lauded the compulsory education efforts. About noon we arrived at the Tropical Business Hotel. We checked into room 1315 and have a balcony with a river and beach view. We walked down to the beach about sunset and made photos before we returned to the hotel.

Manaus Opera House

Plaza in Front of Manaus Opera House

Cast Iron Stairway of Manaus Opera House

Manaus Opera House Stage

Manaus Opera House Boxes

Manaus Opera House Ceiling

Manaus Opera House Ballroom

Manaus Opera House Ballroom Ceiling

Manaus Opera House Ballroom Chandelier

Manaus Opera House Ballroom

Manaus Opera House Exterior Balcony Ceiling

Sao Sebastin Church near Manaus Opera House

Downtown Manaus

Rubber Baron's Mansion

Servants' Quarters for Rubber Baron's Mansion

Manaus

Floating Gas Stations - Manaus

Manaus

Old Portuguese Hospital - Manaus

Eiffel Designed Water Storage Tank - Manaus

Manaus Sunset

Thursday 4 March –We took advantage of the sunlight to make a photo of the bridge construction. About 8:20 we walked over to the zoo in the courtyard of the other hotel. Trees are labeled and animals are caged; some cages had labels and others did not. We saw a jaguar and an ocelot. Several types of parrots and monkeys were also on display. We saw the huge capybara, a giant rodent; nearby were peccaries, wild pigs with an odor to match. It was hot and humid and we were back in the room by 9:30. We just enjoyed the cool until time for the noon shuttle to the airport. We flew TAM from Manaus to Miami and spent the night in the Marriott hotel. On Friday 5 March, we flew American Airlines to DFW.