PANAMA CANAL CRUISE

PANAMA CANAL CRUISE

Regent Seven Seas Navigator

2 - 21 January 2017

We took a Panama Canal Cruise aboard Regent Seven Seas Navigator sailing from Miami, Florida to San Diego, California. We flew to Miami on Monday, the 2^nd, before the ship sailed on Thursday, the 5^th,  and disembarked the ship and flew home on Saturday, the 21st. This post deals with the ports and not the sea days.

Thursday 5 January – We took a taxi from the Marriott Biscayne Bay Hotel with our great harbor view 

to the cruise terminal. Check in was relatively painless and we enjoyed the buffet lunch in “La Veranda” while waiting for our suite. [Regent’s terminology for a cabin is a suite.] We used the instructions and logged onto WiFi; it's free.  The "Safety Drill" was at 5:15; it was more annoying than they usually are. After the drill, we went to Deck 10 for "Sail Away," and sailed at 600.

GEORGE TOWN, GRAND CAYMAN

Saturday 7 January - We arrived in George Town, Grand Cayman around 9:00. This is a tender port. After breakfast in "Veranda," we returned to the suite. While we were unable to get onto the internet yesterday, we had access almost as soon as we anchored. Our tour, "Turtles, Stingrays, Land & Sea" met at 11:00. After exchanging our tour ticket for a numbered ticket, we waited 10 or 12 minutes before boarding a tender for the pier. Once we were ashore, we boarded a mini-bus with Robert as our driver/guide; we totaled 14 passengers. After driving through downtown, we headed north with Robert providing commentary along the way. 

It was unusual to see a "Dairy Queen" on the main street downtown; we can't remember seeing one overseas. 

We reached the "Turtle Farm" and Robert guided us through the facility dedicated to the preservation of the Green Sea Turtle. This included showing us breeding stock, two-year-olds and babies. We were offered the opportunity to hold one; we declined. After viewing a short video on the facility, we left. 

Our next stop was the Tortuga Rum Cake Shop where we sampled two varieties: chocolate and banana. We were given the opportunity to purchase cakes and bottles of rum; again we declined. Our next stop was Hell, known for it's coral rock formation and post office. The post office was closed and it was pouring rain; one person went inside a shop to buy a postcard. The rain had stopped by the time we arrived at the pier and boarded a boat for a very long ride to Stingray City, a sandbar where it is possible to touch and be photographed with stingrays; the water is a little over waist deep and the stingrays come for the squid the crew feeds them. We made photos from the boat. Only 7 tour members joined the crew in the water. 

After about 30 minutes, we sailed back to the pier, reboarded the bus and were driven back to the tender landing.

CARTEGANA, COLOMBIA

Monday 9 January - We knew when the door was opened for the pilot at 5:27.  After one of our roughest nights at sea---ever---we got up when the alarm sounded at 6:20. Room service breakfast arrived about 6:50. At 8:00 we went to the "Seven Seas Lounge" to wait for our tour to depart at 8:15. When called, we made our way down to the gangway Today was our first time in Colombia. We boarded bus#8 with Lee as our guide for "Old Cartegana Walking Tour." Our first stop was Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a fort built by the Spanish in 1639. Lee explained its construction before we left the bus to make photos. 

We reboarded the bus, drove by the Old City Walls and made our way to Old Town where we began a leisurely stroll through the colonial part of the city. Lee pointed out various buildings and architectural features in great detail. 

We saw a mass in progress in Iglesia de Santo Domingo, 

balconies, 

the Cathedral (closed for renovation), 

the museum housed in the Palacio de la Inquisicion. 

As today was a governmental/public holiday [Epiphany Observed], no museums were open but that didn't prevent Lee's stopping in front of one and spending 10+ minutes extolling its virtues. We stopped at Plaza Bolivar, dedicated to the "Hero of Colombian Independence;" the plaza occupies the site where the Inquisition carried out its public burnings. 

A statue of Christopher Columbus dominates the plaza where slaves were sold and the mayor's office now occupies the former Spanish Customs House. 

After seeing the exterior of Convento y Iglesia de San Pedro Claver 

and the Clock Tower atop the city wall, 

we went to a shop where we were given about 40 minutes to shop. Then we walked back to the bus. Before returning to the ship, we drove along the coastline and beach made a loop through Boca Grande, the modern section of the city. This included seeing both the army and naval facilities. Upon reaching the ship about noon, we embarked and went to lunch in "Veranda."

PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT

Tuesday 10 January - Although scheduled to enter The Panama Canal  at 7:30, we didn't enter until an hour or more later. The narrator on the Bridge said it was possibly due to work on one lane of the two-lane canal. We used the old locks from 1916 and not the new ones, which are reserved for large vessels. We went on deck and made some pictures before finding seats in Galileo, a lounge on deck 11 aft. Unfortunately, this ship has no interior public area on the bow; the spa and fitness center occupy that space. Exiting locks, we reached Miraflores Lake around 3:00 and sailed toward Miraflores Locks. By 4:30, we had exited those locks and reached sea level once more as we made our way toward the Pacific Ocean. This was our second transit of the canal and both times we went from the Atlantic to the Pacific; because of the geographic shape of the isthmus, that is actually a west to east sailing. Tonight we set the clocks back one hour; we're now on CST instead of EST.

GOLFITO, COSTA RICA

Wednesday 11 January - "Private Galley & Wine Cellar" ship's tour followed by lunch in "Compass Rose” began at 11:15 and was conducted by the Head Sommelier and Executive Chef, It was compliments of American Express. We were already docked in Golfito, Costa Rica by the time we finished lunch. After returning to the suite to change and get ready, we went ashore. Costumed, local dancers were in full swing on the pier as we disembarked. The only other ship in port belonged to the United States Coast Guard. We wandered into the edge of town; it's impoverished. When the United Fruit Company left, it created a void that has not been filled. It was sunny, hot and humid; even the locals said, "Mucho Calor! Mucho Sol!" After walking quite a ways up the street and back, we stopped in a "Farmacia" and asked how far it was to town; my limited Spanish helped as they didn't speak English. She said about 12 minutes and that we needed a taxi. After walking back to the port gate, we arranged for a taxi into town for $5. It was farther than we thought---maybe a couple of miles. Once in the shopping area, we walked up the street and back. Then we took another taxi back to the port for another $5. We walked from the port gate to the ship and were back aboard before 3:00.

PUNTARENAS, COSTA RICA

Thursday 12 January – Today’s 7 1/2 hour tour, "National Park, Pura Vida Gardens & Crocs," met at 7:45. We were among the first off the ship onto the crowded pier; the Island Princess was also in port. We boarded a bus with Brian and Irini as guides and drove out of Puntarenas. After about an hour's drive, we stopped at Tarcoles Bridge where we got off the bus and walked out onto the bridge. Huge crocodiles, the largest we had ever seen, were in the water and sunning on the bank. 

This was a two-lane bridge and we stood on a raised area just inside the rain that was only wide enough for one person to walk. Behind us, cars of all sizes, small trucks, tour buses, minibuses, vans, and eighteen-wheelers whizzed by. After making some photos and walking all the way across the bridge, we reboarded the bus for the twenty minute drive to Carara Reserve, a rainforest. We spent about an hour and a half walking over paved, graveled and dirt paths through the forest. It was hot---think sauna---and there was nothing spectacular to see unless you count leaf-cutting ants. 

After reboarding the bus, we drove a short distance on the highway before turning off on a side road which twisted and turned its way up a mountain to Pura Vida Gardens. We ate lunch there, reboarded the bus in a rain shower and began the twisting plunge back down the mountain side to the highway. Our next stop was Sarchi, an upscale craft store. After 30 or 40 minutes there, we drove back to the ship. 

We arrived about 3:00, embarked and went to the suite. Sailing was at 4:00 and we made a few photos before we pulled away.

CORINTO, NICARAGUA

Friday 13 January - We tied up in Corinto, Nicaragua, a busy commercial port. Containers were stacked on the pier and being loaded and unloaded from vessels. Another vessel, either Chinese or Japanese, was taking aboard peanuts and huge bags of them filled semi-trailers as they waited to be unloaded. 

Our tour, "Colonial Leon," met at noon; we were bus 18, the last one. As we drove out of the port, an oncoming line of trucks a mile long was waiting to enter the port to unload cargo. Prosperity does not exist here; its impoverishment reminded us of Asia. There were lots of walls, fences and burglar bars and the police carried sawed-off shotguns. The drive between Corinto and Leon took over an hour through farming country. We saw some fields where peanuts had been dug and others where sugar cane grew; some sugar cane fields were irrigated. We saw some cattle and a few horses as well as quite a few mango trees. Chris, our guide, gave some facts about the country and showed us a cacao pod and a jicamo, a gourd-like fruit used for utensils. The road traversed was a section of the Pan-American Highway and is two lanes. Traffic was congested. We even saw a couple of horse carts, however, the slow movers were loaded trucks. Upon reaching Leon, we received very sketchy and limited information but determined we could tour the Basilica Catedral de la Asuncion  on our own and then meet at 3:00. Built in 1747, the massive structure withstands earthquakes and has massive interior columns. We had about an hour so we visited the church and then wandered around the market. 

After touring the church, we spent time sitting on the plaza. 

It was 3:15 when we left the plaza in Leon and began the trip back to Corinto; it took over an hour to retrace our route. We did stop once to make a photo of the volcanoes. 

We saw many vehicles used as taxis; they were bicycles with covered seating for more than one person. All gasoline is imported from Venezuela and costs about $4/gallon. All aboard was set for 4:30 with sailing at 5:00; tours were late and it was after 6:00 when we sailed. They did not cancel or postpone the "Mid-Cruise Refresher Lifeboat Drill" originally scheduled for 5:30; many were past irritated and the drill largely ineffective.

PUERTO QUETZAL, GUATEMALA

Saturday 14 January - We docked in Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala about 9:00. The announcement said this was not our regular dock but that a ship from another company had mechanical difficulties and was tied up in our usual spot; that ship was the Seabourn Odyssey and its online itinerary shows it to be in this port today. However, the onboard materials we received last night, detailed the shuttle between the commercial port and cruise terminal. At any rate, we were tied up in a commercial port. Quien sabe? 

Some of the onboard materials cautioned about pickpockets and petty theft in Guatemala. Not really interested in any of the ship's tours, we decided against booking any. We rode a shuttle---think school bus---to the Puerto Quetzal shopping area located at the Cruise Terminal where the other ship was docked. This was a market selling Guatemalan handicrafts. We spent over an hour wandering through the various booths. The vendors all spoke English and everyone took US dollars. We made the correct decision in going before lunch as it might be cooler and less crowded; it was pleasant in the shade but very warm in the sun and there were not many shoppers. 

After 11:30, we boarded another shuttle, this one an air-conditioned minibus, for the ride back to the ship. It departed the shopping area around noon, but we enjoyed sitting inside with the a/c on; it was hot outside. We sailed at 7:00.

ACAPULCO, MEXICO

Monday 16 January - The ship was tied up across the street from the San Diego Fort. 

We were on Bus #1 for our tour, "Acapulco Highlights & Cliff Divers" scheduled to meet at 8:25. We had two guides, Patricia and Juanita, who pointed out interesting sites as we drove through the city. Our first stop was El Hotel Mirador where we descended 70 steps to a terrace. From there we watched the La Quebrada Cliff Divers as they climbed the cliff face and prayed at a shrine dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe before diving into the sea. Even though it was not close, we had a good view.

After the diving show, we saw a brief---3 dances---Mexican Folkloric Show before getting back on the bus. 

We had about a half-hour at a shopping stop. This was a controlled stop as we were inside a compound with no access for petty thieves. Once back aboard the bus we drove along the "Coast Road" to Linda Vista where we made photos of Acapulco from across the bay. 

There was shopping here, too, operated by a charitable organization. Then it was back on the bus as we drove to the edge of the city seeing Las Brisas, Puerto Marquez, Black Lagoon, and the Princess Hotel. We made our way back to the ship and arrived about 12:30. The Acapulco we saw today bore little resemblance to the one of our 1972 visit; we couldn't figure out where the condo we stayed in was. Also, heavily armed police and military were everywhere. At 4:00, we sailed for Cabo San Lucas. 

We set the clock back an hour to MST.

CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO

Wednesday 18 January - We anchored off Cabo San Lucas this morning. We didn't wait long to board a tender for the short ride to the pier. We enjoyed pleasant weather: sunny with a few clouds and comfortable temperatures in the upper-60s to low-70s. Once ashore, we got a map and began walking toward downtown. We took a "Bicitaxi," a bicycle that pulls a cart-like contraption. It cost $8. Once in the shopping area, we walked around for a while. Neither of us saw anything we felt like we had to have. Shop operators were quick to give a high price, then to cut that price, and finally to ask "how much you want to pay." We weren't susceptible to them. We began walking back toward the pier but soon found another Bicitaxi to take us to the area. We went into "Mercado at the Marina" before wandering more in the area. Then we made our way back to the tender pier. 

It was about 11:30 when we embarked the ship. We made a few pictures in town and some more from the ship. We could see the rocks at "Land's End" but not Los Arcos. The Seven Seas Explora was also in port. When we sailed at 4:00, we saluted the Explora by sailing all the way around her and with the ship's horn; she responded with her horn. It was a festive time with almost all passengers on the outside decks. Some Navigator passengers held banners and flags over the rails; at least 2 people aboard the Explora waved with huge hand-shaped signs on sticks. While on the upper deck, we made more photos including some of Los Arcos. 

We saw some dolphins and at least two whales spouting. We set the clock back one hour to PST. 

AT SEA
Thursday 19 January - The crew entertained passengers with a fantastic show. 

SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

Friday 20 January - There was some rocking during the night but not as bad as predicted. The Caribbean crossing was much worse. Mist, fog and rain filled our window view. From our suite we watched the rain both through the window and on the Bridge Cam. San Diego appeared blurry. Docking was at noon and then we had to wait on clearance from Immigration. We boarded the bus for our tour, "Highlights of San Diego and Harbor Tour" at 1:00. Unfortunately for us---but fortunately for them---San Diego's drought ended today; it poured. The longer we toured, the heavier the rainfall. 

A number of us abandoned the tour when it passed the cruise terminal about 2:45 and skipped the harbor tour portion. Strong, gale-force winds blew pelting, torrential rain, and we got wet even on covered porches as we embarked.